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Road bikes have many advantages. You can use them to exercise, go for rides with friends, and run errands around town at a slower pace (compared with a car). Speed, agility and efficiency are other hallmarks of road bikes. Before choosing and buying a bike, keep the following in mind: – What is your cycling style, and what do you want the bike for? – What is your friends' cycling style, and what do they recommend for you? – What is your budget? Road bikes range in price from $1,000 to more than $10,000. Also remember to budget for other items such as shoes, clothing and other equipment. What is a road bike? First, let us briefly outline what sets a road bike apart from other types of bicycles: Features of a road bike Very lightweight frame, wheels and components Handlebars curved backward (and slightly flat, similar to a mountain bike) Narrow tires Carbon fiber front fork No front or rear shock absorbers Women's and men's styles and a wide range of sizes Performance of a road bike Suitable for exercise, recreation and racing Designed for asphalt or paved routes and not suitable for dirt roads at all. They are faster than most types of bikes and can cover longer distances. Suitable for touring when a support vehicle accompanies you, since these bikes cannot carry heavy loads. Most road bikes lack the mounts for rock or mountain gear that touring and off-road bikes have. This does not mean you cannot go touring or ride for fun on a road bike, but you will have to carry extra bags for your luggage and equipment. Road bike frame geometry Although different road bike models may look alike, there are small but important differences in the overall design of their frames. Some road bikes are designed for fitness riding. If you plan to ride more than three times a week over distances of 20–150 miles, these bikes will suit you. In general, the frame is built so that the rider is more comfortable over fairly long distances. The saddle on these bikes also sits higher than on some other models. Road bikes designed for racing and competition have their own distinctive geometry. These models require the rider to be more flexible and to sit in a position that is better aerodynamically. They also handle better. Racing bikes are characterized by a strong, rigid frame, lighter wheels and a higher price. Flat-bar road bikes are similar to fitness bikes but have a higher saddle. This style suits recreational riding and touring. Tip: Choose a bike with a sport geometry unless you are looking for a bike for cycling races. Road bike frame materials The first and most common frame materials for road bikes are aluminum and carbon fiber. Aluminum frames are cheaper than carbon fiber frames and mostly offer a comfortable, smooth ride. Most bikes with aluminum frames also use carbon fiber in parts such as the front fork to better absorb bumps and vibrations from the road. Carbon fiber frames usually absorb more of the vibration from uneven terrain than aluminum frames, so you will have a much better and more comfortable ride. Because making carbon fiber frames is difficult and complex, they cost much more than aluminum frames. Of course, ride quality also depends on the frame design. Tip: If you are looking for a light and strong bike, a carbon fiber frame will suit you. If you plan to ride for recreation or fitness and are not after speed, choose an aluminum frame. Main components of a road bike The most important parts and components attached to the frame: Drivetrain (chainring, crankset, chain, bottom bracket, brake levers, shift levers) Wheels (rims, front and rear hubs, axles, spokes) Brakes, handlebars, saddle, seat clamp, pedals Complete component set (Groupset) Complete component sets are offered by manufacturers. A bike fitted with such a set (all parts of the same brand and model, from one company) looks neater and more stylish. Groupsetis a term used to describe the quality of bikes or to compare them with one another. Shimano and SRAM are among the well-known makers of bike equipment, especially drivetrain parts. The table below compares the groupset models offered by these two manufacturers: SRAM model Shimano model Intended use – Sora Entry level Apex Tiagra Standard level Rival 105 Mid level Force Ultegra High level (recreational) Red Dura-Ace Racing level Gears and chainrings The main difference between road bikes lies in their gearing systems. Let's start with the chainset. When you pedal, the chain turns the rear wheel. A road bike's chainset may have two or three chainrings, or it may be a compact set with smaller chainrings. Triple chainset: These bikes usually have a 9-speed cassette on the rear wheel, giving the rider a total of 27 gears. This type of system gives the rider a wide range of gears. Double chainset and compact chainset: Both have two chainrings at the front and are paired with a 10-speed cassette on the rear wheel, giving the rider 20 gears in total. A compact chainset narrows the gear range and is often better suited to sportier bike designs. Keep in mind that if you are a beginner, or plan to ride in hilly areas, a triple or compact chainset will suit you. Experienced cyclists, or those who ride on flat, even routes, may choose a double chainset. Total gears Rear cassette Chainring teeth Chainset 27 9-speed 30/39/50 Triple chainset 20 10-speed 50/34 Compact chainset 20 10-speed 39/53 Double chainset The number of teeth on the rear cassette also affects the bike's gear range. On the SRAM Apex model, the highest gear (smallest sprocket) has 11 or 12 teeth, and the lowest gear (largest sprocket) has 23 to 28 teeth. On the SRAM Apex, the drivetrain uses technology that provides a wider gear range than a triple chainset, even though it uses a compact chainset. This is achieved by having more teeth on the rear cassette. Replacing the rear cassette is a relatively inexpensive way to change a bike's gear range. However, it can sometimes cause problems, so it is best to consult a mechanic or specialist before doing it. Wheels Wheels have a significant effect on the following: The weight of the bike The bike's acceleration The bike's aerodynamics and how well you can control it in strong wind You usually won't need to worry much about choosing the right wheels for your bike, unless you are looking for specific features or an upgrade in quality. In general, the higher a bike sits within its own range of models, the lighter and faster it becomes. Recreational or fitness cyclists are less concerned about choosing wheels than those who plan to race or compete. Tip: The more a wheel can reduce the bike's weight and improve its handling, the better a choice it is to buy. Pedals Ordinary bikes have simple pedals and sometimes may have toe guards. However, more professional and larger bikes are sold without pedals. This may seem odd, but it is because professional cyclists prefer to choose the right pedals according to their goals and needs. If you want to pedal efficiently, you should use cycling shoes and clipless pedals. If you don't, it is like expecting excellent performance from a car running on low-octane fuel. Pedals are offered by many different brands (including Shimano, Look, Time and Speedplay), and each brand has several models. A higher price means lighter weight, less wear and better performance. Brake levers and shifters In the past, these were two completely separate mechanisms located in two different places on the bike. In most modern bikes, however, the brake lever and the gear shifter are combined. There are differences in basic operation between different brands and models. By trying out different bikes, you will gradually come to understand the differences in how they work. Tip: When buying a bike, try holding the brake levers and check whether you are comfortable. If you have small hands, look for levers that suit you or that can be adjusted. Choosing the right frame size Most road bikes come in more than six frame sizes, in different shapes. It is important to choose a size that suits your body. A frame that fits you will give a more comfortable and enjoyable ride, and you will have better control of the bike. Frame size may be given in centimetres (based on the length of the seat tube) or in general sizes from XS to XL. Note that women's and men's bikes with the same frame size do not have identical frames. On women's bikes the top tube is shorter, because women generally have shorter torsos and legs than men. How do you know which frame size is right for you? An experienced bike shop assistant should be able to work out and recommend the right size just by looking at you. Some shops also have a special sizing system or sizing calculators. A bike shop assistant should also ask about your previous cycling experience, flexibility, riding style and goals, so that they can recommend a more accurate frame size. Although the top tube length is important, the overall length of the bike is a more important factor, because it affects the distance between your hands and the handlebars. Bikes There is a lot of competition between bike brands. The final price of a bike is a good basis for comparing different brands and models. The most important factors affecting a bike's price are: The frame material The quality of the components A bike with a carbon fibre frame will be far more expensive than a similar one with an aluminium frame. And the higher the quality of the components, the higher the price of the bike. It is best to first work out your budget and the maximum you can spend. Tip: In the long run, buying a top-quality bike works out cheaper than buying a low-quality one and then replacing or upgrading its components later. Keep in mind that you may need to spend around $100 to $250 on pedals and special cycling shoes. Other accessories and equipment include: Bike equipment Rider equipment Tire-changing tool Helmet Spare tube Shoes Saddle bag Gloves Small pump (air pump) Cycling shorts Chain oil Water bottle Bike repair tools Base layer Bottle cage Jacket or windbreaker Ride the bike and test it Ask the seller if you can ride and try out a few bikes. With the seller's help, choosing will be easier. Even if the prices are similar, each bike rides differently. Test each bike for about 10 to 15 minutes. You will usually feel better on one of them; you are looking for the bike that suits your body shape best. Tip: You should choose a bike that fits both your current needs and your future needs (once you have gained more experience). Check comfort and efficiency Choosing a frame in the right size is the first step. The next important step is checking the saddle height. Once you have adjusted the bike properly to your size, you will have a much better riding experience. A professional bike fit includes checking the cleat position on your shoes and the pedals, the saddle height, how well your hands reach the handlebars, and the relative position of the other parts of the bike and your body. The goal is to see which position is most comfortable for you and to reduce or eliminate any extra strain. This also improves your pedalling efficiency. Although there are certain rules for cycling, you have to gain all of your cycling experience yourself, whether riding alone or in a group with friends. You can ride anywhere from thirty minutes to six hours at different times. If you are a beginner cyclist, it is best to join a team or club and get more advice and tips about cycling from your teammates or friends.

Looking for a new bike that suits you? The good news is that you don't need to learn bike jargon to choose a good one! Buying a bike can be broken down into three steps: 1. Decide on the type of bike: The right bike for you depends on where and how you ride. We've put together a summary of the bike categories to make your choice easier and better informed. 2. Performance and price: Generally, across different bikes there is a similar relationship between performance and price. To get a bike with better performance and quality, or one made of a more specialized material such as carbon, you have to pay more. 3. Make sure the bike is the right size for you: Bikes come in different sizes. Look for the right bike based on your height. Read more about the basics of bike sizing. Decide on the type of bike Ask yourself where you want to ride: city streets, dedicated bike paths, dirt roads, or a mix of all of them? The table below shows the options and the types of bikes suited to each kind of route: Bike model Route type Road bikes, hybrid bikes, electric bikes: paved roads, dedicated bike paths. Hybrid and electric bikes: streets (smooth or rough), natural trails. Touring bikes: any route, from asphalt to wilderness. Mountain bikes, electric bikes: dirt roads. Almost any bike can ride on asphalt or paved surfaces. Some bikes can handle several types of terrain. To make a better choice, work out where most of your riding will take place. Below you can find more information about the different bike categories. Electric bikes Many different types of bikes also come with electric options. Take a little time to consider it; an electric bike might be right for you. In general, an electric bike has an electric motor that assists your pedaling and gives you an easier ride. Although these bikes are expensive, climbing hills on them is easier than on non-electric models. Electric bikes also let you ride farther and faster. Road bikes Road bikes are suitable for recreational and fitness riding, touring and travel, and racing. Most of these bikes have drop handlebars that curve backward, which puts the rider in an aerodynamic position. A slight forward lean may be desirable. Road bikes fall into the following categories (including several electric models): Endurance road bikes: "Sustained comfort" might be a better name for these bikes, because their frames are designed so that the rider feels more comfortable over long distances. One of the factors behind this is the wider tires, which let the bike roll with less effort. Gravel bikes (for sand and dirt roads): Since cyclists always like to push the limits and pick a new destination for each ride, multi-surface bikes (bikes suited to several different kinds of terrain) have been important for several years. Hybrid bikes are one example. If you want to ride longer distances at higher speeds, gravel bikes are a good option. Thanks to their special handlebars (with the two ends curving backward) and wide tires, these bikes are more aerodynamic and can ride on both paved and dirt roads. Touring bikes: These bikes differ from road bikes in several ways. Touring bikes are designed to carry loads over long routes. With their sturdier frames, these models can handle heavy loads. They also have special mounts and racks for this purpose. Performance bikes: These lightweight, aerodynamic bikes are designed for group rides and fast riding on flat and hilly routes, or for certain races. Mountain bikes Mountain bikes have a strong frame as well as a suspension system and shock absorbers. They can ride on all kinds of terrain, including dirt roads, rocks, mountains, cliffs and other uneven surfaces, which makes riding them enjoyable. Mountain bikes have lower gears than road models, which makes climbing hills easier. There are two common terms for these bikes: "full suspension", meaning a bike with shock absorbers at both the front and rear; and "hardtail", meaning a bike with a front suspension fork and no rear suspension. Full-suspension models are more expensive but offer a more comfortable ride. They can also handle a wider variety of terrain. Mountain bikes come in two styles: Cross-country bikes: These are lightweight and more versatile. This type of bike is also seen in races, so it has both climbing power and racing speed. If you plan to ride off-road or do non-technical (or only slightly technical) riding, this bike is right for you. Trail bike: This is the usual choice for cyclists who are riding in the mountains for the first time. If you want to ride in a group with friends on dirt roads, a trail bike is the right one for you. Riding these bikes is efficient and enjoyable. All-mountain bike: If you are looking for technical riding, this type of bike is made for you. With it you can perform a variety of techniques. Their features include enjoyable descents, strong climbing ability, and the balance needed for steep terrain. Fat-tire bikes: Very wide tires are the most distinctive feature of these bikes. Wide tires make riding on snow and sand, and even on very hard, rough routes, much easier. Hybrid bike If you are looking for a bike that can be ridden on dirt roads as well as in the city, this bike will suit you. You may have noticed that hybrid bikes are also used for exercise and fitness. This is because of their special features, including comfort and a handling that is smooth and easy. With their larger-diameter tires, these bikes are faster, and because the tires are wide they can also handle off-road riding. If you plan to ride off-road, a hybrid bike with a front suspension fork is more suitable. Specialty bikes In addition to the types of bikes described above, there are other kinds of bikes: Cruiser bike: A cruiser bike is designed for easy, leisurely riding in the city. Its features include wide tires and a soft, comfortable saddle. These bikes are also suitable for short rides on flat dirt trails. Cargo bike: These bikes are designed to carry heavy loads. You can use a cargo bike for household shopping, carrying children or belongings, and so on. These bikes are not fast, but they are very useful for everyday tasks. Folding bike: These bikes can be folded and placed alongside your other travel gear. Folding bikes are very suitable for people who cycle to work or travellers who do not have enough space to carry luggage. Light weight, sufficient sturdiness and quick folding are among the features of these bikes. Performance and price considerations You do not need to study the equipment and technology used in each type of bike, but you should know that the better equipped a bike is, the higher its price will be. When you want to buy a bike within your budget, consider the following factors, which raise the cost of a bike: Full suspension, hardtail (a bike with a front suspension fork and no rear suspension), or no suspension: Full-suspension bikes (with shock absorbers at both the front and rear) are usually more expensive, but in return you get a smoother, more comfortable ride. You can also move more easily on hard, rough routes. Hardtail bikes (with front suspension only) absorb the vibrations caused by bumps on the route, but they perform less well than full-suspension models. Carbon and aluminum: Bikes with carbon frames are lighter and offer better ride quality, but they are also more expensive. Bikes with aluminum frames are available on the market at almost every price. Electric riding: Electric bikes extend the range and possibilities of cycling for everyone. Quality of materials: The price of every bike depends on the materials used to build it. The better the quality of the materials, the more you naturally have to pay. Bike gear system The number of gears and the range of each one differ from bike to bike. However, bikes in each category (the categories of bikes were described earlier) usually have a similar gear system. Tire size Tire size is another feature of a bike, and it is determined once you choose the right category of bike. There is, however, one big exception: most mountain bikes have 29-inch or 27.5-inch tires. From a financial point of view, there is not much price difference between the different sizes. So the important question when choosing tires is the performance you have in mind. Brake type In past years, rim brakes were more common than disc brakes. Disc brakes have been presented as the better and more powerful brakes in every situation. Since the price of disc brakes has dropped in recent years, their sales and use have increased. Rim brakes, which work by pressing brake pads against the walls of the rims, are still considered an economical option. Checking or replacing the pads on this type of brake is very easy. Disc brakes, which work by pressing the pads against a special disc (rotor), fall into two categories: hydraulic and mechanical. Hydraulic disc brakes offer stronger, better braking and respond to just a slight movement of your finger. The pads on these disc brakes are also easy to adjust, and no manual adjustment is needed. Bike size Buying the right size of bike is the first step. Fortunately, most bike manufacturers provide the information you need so that you can choose a suitable bike based on your height. The most important factors in bike fit, namely the distance between you and the top tube and the distance between you and the handlebars, can be adjusted later. Keep in mind that it will take several weeks before you gradually get used to a new bike.

A mountain bike looks quite different from a standard bike, so mountain biking clothing needs to be different too! There is no rule against wearing either tight or baggy shorts on a bike. But mountain biking is much more enjoyable if you wear clothes that feel comfortable wherever you ride and however you ride. Protection matters too. Whether you ride cautiously or recklessly, you need clothing that protects you from trail hazards such as thorn bushes, branches and rocks. Mountain bike shorts and padding (chamois) Like the components of the drivetrain, mountain bike shorts have special features that give you more comfort and freedom of movement. They also have padding to reduce friction and moisture. Padded shorts and special liner shorts can be bought separately from sports shops. On most mountain bike models, aerodynamics are not that important. But if you plan to ride in a race, or take a regular ride over long distances, snug, well-fitted shorts are the better choice aerodynamically. Some cyclists prefer tight shorts because they also support the movement of the muscles. Most mountain bike shorts are made of sturdy fabric and have plenty of pockets. The more abrasion protection a rider needs, the heavier and longer the fabric used. For example, for downhill riding you need thicker, longer shorts than for uphill riding. The pads attached to mountain bike shorts are narrower than those on ordinary cycling shorts, because for most of the ride you sit upright, and along the way you may stand up or sit down in places. Most liners are removable, which lets you buy undershorts with a padded liner separately. Whether you choose padded shorts or shorts and a pad (as separate items) depends entirely on your personal preference. Mountain bike jerseys In general, mountain bike jerseys and road bike jerseys are not very different from each other. Mountain bike jerseys are fitted, but they are cut a little looser than road bike models. Sometimes a looser, larger-than-usual jersey is chosen for a more comfortable ride. Longer sleeves give more protection against thorns and tree branches. If you plan to use a backpack, you no longer need the saddle bags that attach to the back of the bike. For lighter riding, rear bags are better for carrying food, tools, keys, a mobile phone and money. A windbreaker panel at the front of the rider can help at high speeds or when climbing. Mountain bike gloves Two distinctive features set mountain bike gloves apart from road bike gloves: padding and finger coverage. Since the handlebar grips on mountain bikes are padded, wearing padded gloves is optional. For rides of several hours, the more padding there is, the more comfortable you will be. However, gloves without padding are lighter and cooler and allow you more freedom of movement. Fingerless gloves are generally not widely used. Sweaty hands feel uncomfortable, but when we see fingers that have been injured (from impacts), we realize that full-finger gloves are always the best choice. Cold-season clothing for mountain biking Warm clothing for the cold seasons lets you start mountain biking earlier in spring and keep going later in autumn. You should always carry wind and rain protection in your pack, especially if you plan to ride all year round. Tip: Do not put on your warm layers before starting your big trip until the cold actually arrives. If you get hot right at the start, you will be badly overheated and tired for the rest of the route. Cycling jackets The design of mountain bike outerwear is nothing very special. The first difference from road cycling clothing is that the fabric used is more durable. You do, of course, need a more specialized design that is windproof, does not bother your shoulders, and gives enough coverage when you lean forward. It should also have a hood that is compatible with a helmet. For more serious protection, you should wear a waterproof, breathable jacket. For short rides in ordinary weather, cyclists choose light, compact clothing. Cycling pants Cycling pants, most of which are padded, can be a good replacement for shorts on cold days. And if the weather in the area where you ride is wet, you will need waterproof, breathable pants, just like the jackets. Insulating layers For the upper body, you can get the warmth you need from the base layers or the light fleece jacket you are wearing. Arm and leg warmers and hats Arm and leg warmers and a hat or headband are practical options and are easy to use along the route. Mountain bike shoes Compatibility for pedalling: the first thing to consider is how well the shoes work with the bike's pedal system. You can also buy shoes that have regular soles and that can take suitable cleats when you are not using clip-in pedals. Walkability: Another important point to consider is how much walking you will do in the mountains. Shoes with sticky rubber soles make walking easier and let you cross hard terrain more comfortably, which is a good option if you are a beginner. And if your bike breaks down along the trail, you will have to continue on foot, so you need suitable shoes. Pedaling efficiency: Certain stiff shoes are designed to pedal and drive the bike efficiently, but walking in them is difficult. These shoes are usually more breathable than regular shoes. Waterproof protection: For wet and cold conditions, look for waterproof shoes. Another option is to buy a pair of shoe covers. Mountain bike helmet Your mountain biking style is very important in choosing the right helmet. In situations that demand a lot of riding skill, or on routes with descents, you naturally need a sturdier helmet. Cross-country riding: Here, climbing speed matters, and where the descents are not steep, look for a well-ventilated helmet similar to those used for regular road cycling. Trail riding: Riders on trails usually encounter terrain that demands more skill than cross-country riders face. They therefore need more coverage and protection than cross-country riders. All-mountain (endurance): This type of riding involves steeper slopes, more skill and lower speeds. You therefore need much more coverage and protection. Downhill: This is where you see maximum protective coverage. A full-face helmet and possibly safety goggles instead of sunglasses are essential gear. Mountain biking pads and guards The advice on choosing pads is similar to the helmet advice: the more dangerous the riding conditions, the more coverage and padding you need. Most experienced riders usually wear only knee pads, while newcomers may want to protect their elbows as well. Sometimes even experienced riders, for comfort, do not wear protective pads at all until they reach steep descents. Those who ride in truly mountainous areas should have thicker, larger pads. Pads are also essential for downhill riding, and riders often wear shin guards as well. Cycling backpacks In non-racing conditions, you need a backpack that can hold all the gear you need. Most cyclists prefer backpacks that have a water reservoir. Translated by the Dobisell content team

It is a fact that you cannot go rock climbing without equipment. If you are heading out on technical mountaineering routes, you will need even more gear. Alongside your personal fitness and ability, having suitable, high-quality equipment is essential in climbing, so there are various standards that mountaineering equipment must meet. In addition to the European standard (EN), you should also pay attention to the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) standard, which has become a global benchmark. From helmets to climbing and mountaineering shoes: the essential equipment for high-altitude climbing is more extensive than what is needed for sport climbing or indoor climbing. Depending on your rock climbing or technical mountaineering plans, the required equipment may differ, but the basic gear is the same for all teams. Harness Whether for sport climbing, ice climbing, technical mountaineering or trips that ascend to high altitudes, the harness (a piece of climbing and mountaineering equipment that protects the climber during the ascent) is one of the main items of required gear. There are many types of harnesses on the market, each with different features depending on its use. Waist belt: Climbing with a waist belt is one of the methods we recommend; however, there are differences between the harnesses used in sport climbing, high-altitude tours and mountaineering. While sport climbing harnesses have fewer gear loops, these loops are very important in mountaineering; for example, there must be enough loops for quickdraws, for carrying various types of protection, for the tools needed to build a belay station, and for other uses. The soft, thick padding of the waist belt is less valuable in mountaineering than in sport climbing, because in mountaineering people usually avoid rappelling. That said, a harness must fit the body perfectly, and the straps behind the leg loops and the waist must be wide enough. Otherwise, the harness will be uncomfortable and painful when hanging or on long climbs. Harnesses designed for high-altitude climbs do not have wide straps or stiff padding, because, unlike mountaineering harnesses, they are not designed for long periods of use. Instead, they are smaller and much lighter. Chest harness: A chest harness is a complement to the waist belt and in most cases is used only together with it. Although it happens very rarely, this piece should prevent the climber from flipping upside down in a fall. Full body harness (full body): In the past, full body harnesses were used in mountaineering and high-altitude tours; today, however, this type of harness is used in industrial climbing or for children who do not yet have fully developed muscle mass. Full body harnesses are not used in mountaineering and sport climbing, because their hanging position makes rappelling difficult. View and buy all kinds of harnesses at the Dobisell online store Helmet A helmet in mountaineering and rock climbing has two purposes: to protect the climber from falling rocks and from impact. Older climbing helmets had a plastic shell and were strong against impact from above, but they could not protect as well against blows to the side of the helmet. Modern helmets are relatively light because they are made with a polystyrene core and a relatively soft outer shell. These helmets protect you well against impacts but, because of their construction, are more fragile. The hybrid helmet tries to strike a balance between the advantages and disadvantages of plastic and molded helmets: foam covered with a plastic layer. Despite their light weight, hybrid helmets protect the wearer well against impacts. View and buy all kinds of helmets at the Dobisell online store Climbing shoes The soles of all climbing shoes use very little stitching, in order to create friction on the rock and ensure firm footing. Different shoe models vary in the amount of tension, the sole and the shape. Climbing shoes should be chosen according to their intended use. No shoe is so perfect that it can be used for everything, from rough routes to high-altitude tours. For example, on mountaineering routes where people cannot take their shoes off after every pitch, comfort matters far more than in sport climbing. For this reason, the climbing shoes used for these trips are more comfortable than sport climbing shoes and are less stiff and tight. Even so, these shoes must also grip the rock or cliff face well enough for the climber to place their feet more precisely. Read more about how to choose and buy the right climbing shoes Browse and buy a range of climbing shoes at the Dobisell online store Belay and Descent Equipment HMS carabiner (pear-shaped): one of the most essential pieces of equipment you will need! There are basically two types of HMS carabiner: those with a safe locking system (SafeLock) and those with a non-secure locking system (hook-shaped, or snap-gate). The first type is mainly used for glacier climbing or rope climbing, because it prevents the carabiner from opening accidentally due to rope friction. Non-locking carabiners are also used on mountaineering tours; they have a large opening, which makes them ideal for protection, belaying or descending. Browse and buy a range of carabiners at the Dobisell online store ATC: a device with dynamic braking, used in technical climbs for protection, belaying or descending. These devices generate braking force through the manual force applied to the rope. Semi-automatic belay devices such as the Grigri and Smart work differently. With these devices, if there is a sudden fall, the rope stops moving automatically. Read more about the Petzl Reverso belay and descent device Browse and buy a range of belay and descent devices at the Dobisell online store Chalk and Chalk Bag Chalk consists mainly of liquid or powdered magnesium, which dries out the hands. It absorbs sweat moisture and helps climbers grip the rock more easily. Browse and buy a range of climbing chalk and chalk bags at the Dobisell online store Slings and Quickdraws In mountaineering, slings are used at the midpoint of the harness or to connect fixed points. Slings, which are usually made of polyamide (nylon), must be tied off separately with a knot or be sewn. Slings are also used in the quickdraws for technical climbs. The advantage of this type of quickdraw is that its length can be changed quickly, and extending it at certain points along the route reduces rope drag and friction. Quickdraws are also used to attach the rope along a pitch. They are made with two types of webbing, rigid and dynamic (Dyneema). They also come in different lengths, and depending on the type of climb, short and long quickdraws are used along the route. Browse and buy a range of slings and quickdraws at the Dobisell online store HMS Carabiners and Screw-gate Carabiners The HMS carabiner has a large opening, and its name comes from the German word “Halbmastwurfsicherung”. Together with the Munter hitch, it can belay both the lead climber and the second. Combined with a self-belay knot, it can also be used to protect yourself and climb up a rock face. By contrast, screw-gate carabiners have a smaller opening and are less often used for (self-)belaying. Plain Carabiners and Screw-gate Carabiners Plain carabiners are considered the basic connectors in rock climbing. They attach the rope to a bolt or to old climbing gear on the rock face. Climbing carabiners are made of aluminium alloys and come in two types: straight-gate and bent-gate. Like HMS and screw-gate carabiners, plain carabiners must also meet a specific standard for the minimum force they can hold. Kevlar or Dyneema Cord (single cord) Cords are made either of polyethylene (Dyneema) or of aramid (Kevlar). Although polyamide cord is very resistant to tearing, it is still thinner than Kevlar and Dyneema, so it must be thicker and heavier to meet the standards. Dyneema cord is very light and highly resistant to tearing. It is also very resistant to cutting, but it is not very elastic. Kevlar cord has properties quite similar to Dyneema, but it is slightly heavier by comparison. Keep in mind that tying a knot in a rope reduces its strength. Depending on the knot, the rope's strength can drop by 25 to 50 percent. Hanging from a carabiner can also reduce a rope's strength. Read more about knot-tying techniques and their uses in rock climbing Browse and buy a range of ropes at the Dobisell online store Mobile phone A mobile phone is a vital part of your gear, so that you can call for help or make emergency calls. Note that all equipment made of plastic has a maximum lifespan of 10 years. Harnesses, helmets, ropes and other gear must be replaced after 10 years (even if you have not used them). Also, if your equipment has borne a very heavy load, in severe cases (for example, after a serious fall) you should replace it after a single use.

Climbers use a variety of knots depending on the location, the area they are climbing in and the purpose of the knot. Sport climbers tend to use fewer knots, and a more distinct set of them, than other climbers. In wall climbing, it is essential to be able to tie every knot quickly and safely so that the team can work properly. You should become skilled enough to tie a knot even with your eyes closed, in an emergency, in the dark, or when you are tired or short of time. Uncertainty or carelessness can lead to fatal mistakes. There are three types of knots: rope-climbing knots, connecting knots, and knots that create friction and security. Note: Any knot can create a tear or a weak point in the chain of connection, so you must tie your knots very carefully and neatly! Munter hitch The Munter hitch is a protective knot. Strictly speaking it is not one of the main knots, but a loop used to make a connection. It is used to belay the lead climber and the second, and also to lower a partner on the rope. It works best with a pear-shaped HMS carabiner. Clove hitch The clove hitch is a safe knot, well suited to the anchor. It is attached to the central point of the anchor with a locking carabiner. You can adjust the length of the clove hitch quickly and precisely: hold the middle edge of the knot and push the rope in the direction you want. There is also no need to make an awkward connection to the anchor or to remove it. Figure eight knot The figure eight is a standard knot used for climbing with a rope. It is also used in sport climbing and technical mountaineering. Note: After tying the knot, tighten it well and check all of its strands again before you start. Overhand knot The overhand knot is used as a connecting knot, that is, to join the two ends of a rope. It is also very common where the load is light, such as when rappelling, or for knots that have to be set in the climbing site (a tunnel or a loop knot). Although the overall security of this knot is not high and it leaves two long tails, it is perfectly adequate for withstanding this low level of load. Girth hitch On the one hand, this knot is a quick and easy way to connect carabiners to each other. On the other hand, it can be used to tie a carabiner to a tree or to connect an anchor carabiner to a sling or another carabiner. Warning: Connecting knots such as the girth hitch can be very vulnerable when they are under heavy load and get scraped against the rock wall, for example when you set up a hauling rope over the edge of a rock. In general, chain-like equipment is highly vulnerable and is easily damaged. Prusik knot The Prusik knot is a friction knot that can help you when climbing. It can be moved when it is not under load, but it stays fixed if load is applied to it. The Prusik is most often used to increase safety when rappelling down rock walls. In this knot, a rope is wrapped two or three times, depending on its thickness, around the two strands of another rope. The person rappelling moves the knot along with their hand as they descend, so the Prusik protects them. The rope used for this knot is usually 5-6 mm thick. Klemheist knot This knot can be an alternative to the Prusik, but if it is pulled in different directions, it only works effectively in one direction. The Klemheist is very effective with a sling, because even the thinnest slings work well with this knot. Bowline on a bight A climber needs a central point on the anchor to which they can attach the anchor carabiners and their partner's belay device. This knot acts as that central point and, using two loops, puts little stress on the slings. The bowline is also very strong and does not tighten up when put under heavy load. Climbers usually prepare this knot with a 120 cm sling before setting off. Then, while climbing, they have two screw-gate carabiners ready with them. Rock climbing requires learning a variety of knots. A climber must know exactly when and where to use each knot in order to enjoy a safe climb and a safe overall outing.

Have you ever felt unprotected, caught between doubt and the fear of falling? Your friends encourage you by saying, "Just get it over with!" or "You can do it!" But part of you knows better: it knows that fear is meaningful and wants to protect you from danger. So do you listen to your friends and go for it, or do you pay attention to your fear and back off? Motivation tells you how to climb (a mountain). It reveals what you value, influences the decisions you make at height (high on the mountain), and also makes you aware of the consequences of those decisions. For example, if you are motivated to push fear aside and stop yourself from falling at all costs, you are likely to end up hurt or injured. Everyone falls, and if you have not yet learned how to fall skillfully, one bad outcome can reinforce your fear of falling. This approach reflects the "Get it over with!" motivation, or, in more specific terms in our sport, the old misleading phrase: "Hey man, get up there and do it!" You try to push through your fear so that you no longer have to wrestle with it. But this "all or nothing" way of thinking (all = I do it, I send it; nothing = I do something half-hearted, or I don't try it at all because I'm afraid of falling) pulls your attention away from the present moment and toward an imaginary future in which you never have to face your fear. In climbing, since we almost always try to pick routes that are new to us, routes on which we might fall, this issue shows up again every time. With this mindset, you will soon begin to see falling as something full of fear and anxiety. Fear and stress are unpleasant states, so we avoid them. Yet in this approach, something seems wrong about looking for motivation by running away from something that is fundamental to the sport. Instead, we should approach fear as a teacher that actually helps us understand risk and manage stress. What is needed is a shift in motivation, which we can achieve with the help of the following six questions (in order): 1. Define your goal: Are you getting rid of fear, or accepting falling as a skill? 2. Decide when you are comfortable: in the future or in the present? 3. Clarify your relationship with stress and fear: Do you get rid of them, or honor them as teachers? 4. Choose how you start: with all-or-nothing thinking, or with small steps? 5. Decide for yourself: Do you tie your identity to the outcome, or do you separate the two? 6. Decide who makes the decision: you or your friends? As you look over the list, answer the questions. Every time you choose the first option, you are taking the "Get it over with!" approach. In this situation, you react as you shift into the all-or-nothing, fight-or-flight survival mode. Either you fight with everything you have and get past the difficulties without falling, or you flee and do nothing in particular. Your ego drives this whole process: it hopes you will succeed, proving how tough you are, or it makes excuses to talk you out of climbing. All it takes to control fear and stress is to answer the six questions above skillfully. Choosing the second option in all six gives you a focused mindset. This is how we move from faulty, mistaken thinking toward healthier, more purposeful thinking. The aim of "focused" motivation is to learn falling as a skill, so that you can manage your fear and stress intelligently. In turn, this allows you to take small, achievable steps and to rely on how much fear and resistance you actually feel, rather than on the opinions of your friends or your ego. A small step toward stress, like taking progressively bigger steps each time, frees you from this frightening problem, and besides creating less stress, it builds a sense of resilience, which is good. This resistance shows that you are no longer in your comfort zone; in fact, you are entering the stress zone, where learning happens. But you have not yet reached the panic zone, where emotions take over and you can no longer learn anything. Instead, you are the driving force behind these processes, integrating falling as a skill by identifying and taking small steps toward managing the situation. So when you are exposed, do not use the phrase "get it over with" while you are stuck and hesitating; focus instead. It will help you understand the value of your fear and make choices with more manageable consequences. By focusing, you will be able to act skillfully at critical moments such as a fall. This way you will also enjoy the whole climbing process more, which is what you came to the mountain for. Focus Following the six steps below, let go of the thrill-seeking, overambitious mindset and think more openly and with greater focus: 1. Define your goal: learning to fall as a skill 2. When are you comfortable: right now 3. The relationship between fear and stress: honor them as your teachers 4. How to start: with small, manageable steps 5. Ego: separate your identity from the consequences of your actions 6. Who chooses: you!

Measure your torso length To measure this key dimension accurately, you will need a friend and a precise measuring tape. Tilt your head forward so you can feel the bony bump where your shoulders meet your neck. This bone is your seventh cervical vertebra (C7), and it marks the top of your torso length. Place your hands on either side of your body, below your rib cage and on top of your hip bones (the iliac crest). Point your index fingers forward and your thumbs backward, then imagine a line between your thumbs. The point where this line crosses your back is the lower end of your torso measurement. Stand straight and ask your friend to measure the distance between the C7 point and the imaginary line between your thumbs. This measurement is your torso length. Use your torso length to find your backpack size Torso size ranges vary between backpack brands, so always check the size chart for the backpack you are considering. Also keep in mind that home measurements are less accurate, so you can usually only tell whether a backpack fits once you try it on. Measure your hip size (waist circumference) It is uncommon for your torso length to match a backpack's size while its hip belt does not fit, but it is still important to check your hip size. You will be carrying most of the weight of your backpack on your hips, so a suitable, well-fitting belt is essential. To measure your hip size, wrap your hands around your waist (as in the picture above). This imaginary line sits slightly above your trouser belt line, so a backpack hip belt size is slightly different from a trouser waist size. How do we adjust the torso length? Although there are many types of backpacks on the market, backpacks with an adjustable suspension allow the pack to fit a wide range of torso lengths. Different brands use different systems, but most of them are easy to understand. If you choose a backpack with this feature, torso length is the first and most important factor in fitting the pack to your body. If other parts of the backpack do not sit well on your body or do not fit, check your torso length and measure it again. Note that the adjustable straps and bands of a backpack cannot make up for an adjustable system that has been set up incorrectly. If you have trouble with your backpack, take it to the store and ask the staff for help. Adjust your backpack yourself at home Your new backpack has several straps that can be adjusted depending on the type of pack and the weight of the load. Some of the strongest muscles in the body are in the thighs. The goal, therefore, is to adjust the straps so that most of the weight of the pack rests on your hips. In general, a backpack has 4 main adjustable straps: 1. The hip belt 2. The shoulder straps 3. The load-lifter straps 4. The sternum strap To begin, put a load of roughly 7 kilograms in the backpack to simulate a full pack. Before you start, loosen all the adjustable straps very slowly. In general, a backpack has two types of adjustable parts: 1. Primary parts: the shoulder straps and the hip belt 2. Secondary parts: the load-lifter straps and the sternum strap Also, because adjusting the straps is a dynamic process, experienced climbers constantly fiddle with their pack straps and reduce the pressure on their bodies by changing the pressure points of the straps. Step one: the hip belt ● Put the backpack on your shoulders. Move the hip belt until its soft pads sit over your hip bones (the iliac crest). If the pads sit too low or too high, loosen or tighten the shoulder straps so that the belt moves lower or higher. ● Tighten the belt buckle to make the belt snug. Be careful not to over-tighten it; the belt should be comfortable and secure and should not irritate your body tissue. ● Check the padded sections of the belt and make sure they sit exactly over your hip bones. If they do not, readjust the shoulder straps and the hip belt. Keep moving the belt until you find the comfortable position you are looking for. ● The padded part of the belt should wrap around to the front of your hip bone. You also need at least 1 centimetre of free space on each side of the central buckle. If you find you have less space, contact the store and ask for a smaller belt. 2. Step two: the shoulder straps ● Pull the ends of the shoulder straps down and back to tighten them. ● The shoulder straps should hug your shoulders closely, but note that they should not carry too much weight. Otherwise, by putting too much load on the shoulder straps, you place extra strain on your shoulder, neck and upper back muscles. ● Check that the anchor points of the shoulder straps sit about 2 to 3 centimeters below the top of your shoulders (roughly over the broad part of your shoulder blades). If they don't, either your pack's hip belt is in the wrong place or the torso length of the pack doesn't suit your body. ● Loosen and tighten the pack straps to test how the pressure falls on different areas of your shoulders. Learn how to adjust the shoulder straps in small, gradual increments so that you can avoid any pain or pressure while climbing or hiking. 3. Step Three: Load-Lifter Straps ● Load-lifter straps connect the tops of the shoulder straps to anchor points near the top of the back panel. When weight is placed on your body, these straps pull back at an angle of about 45 degrees to your body. ● Do not overtighten the load-lifter straps! This pull may feel pleasant at first, but it can damage your shoulder joints and cause discomfort. Always aim to feel comfortable with the pack straps, not tight and irritated. If you notice a gap at the top of your shoulder straps, loosen the load-lifter straps. 4. Step Four: Sternum Strap ● Adjust the sternum strap until it finally sits at a suitable height on your chest. It should sit about 1 centimeter below your collarbone. ● Tighten and loosen the sternum strap until the shoulder straps are at a suitable width and your arms can move freely. ● Avoid the common mistake of overtightening the sternum strap. Doing so throws off the overall balance of the straps, squeezes your chest muscles and restricts your breathing. Adjust your backpack along the trail too After about 16 kilometers of hiking, the flawless fit you achieved at home becomes a distant memory. Note that even a perfect, well-suited adjustment needs attention along the trail. When packing your backpack and getting ready for the trip, check all the straps again and make sure they are completely in order. At home, try to remember what your chosen backpack settings look like so you can be sure you can restore them whenever you want. While hiking and climbing, keep changing the settings of the straps and different parts of the backpack, and in this way reduce pain, pressure and discomfort in different parts of your body. A very common way to reduce pain from the backpack load is to tighten the shoulder straps and loosen the hip belt. Then, after a while, do the opposite. Pay attention to your posture; leaning forward slightly can make the weight of the backpack feel lighter. Whenever you stop for a rest, take your backpack off. This gives your back a break, and you can take a deep breath as you stretch your muscles.

Carrying the "10 Essentials" on any kind of trip, even a bike ride, can be a good habit. It's true that on an ordinary trip you may only need a few of them, but when something goes wrong, you will be grateful to have these items, which are essential for survival. The original list of the 10 Essentials was compiled in 1930 by The Mountaineers, an organization based in Seattle for climbers and nature explorers that helped people prepare for emergencies in the outdoors. At that time, the list included a map, a compass, sunglasses and sunscreen, extra clothing, a flashlight, a first-aid kit, a fire starter, matches, a knife and extra food. Over the years, however, the list has moved away from individual items toward more of a systems approach. Below, we take a look at the items in the new version of the list: 1- Navigation: map, compass, altimeter, GPS device, personal locator beacon or satellite messenger 2- Headlamp/flashlight plus extra batteries 3- Sun protection: sunglasses, sun-protective clothing and sunscreen 4- First aid: foot-care supplies and insect repellent (if needed) 5- Knife plus a gear repair kit 6- Fire: matches, lighter, firestarter or stove 7- Shelter: carried at all times (for example, an emergency bivouac tent) 8- Extra food: more than the minimum you expect to need 9- Extra water: more than the minimum you expect to need 10- Extra clothing: more than the minimum you expect to need The individual items from each category depend on the trip you are taking. For example, on a short day hike where navigation isn't especially difficult, you might take a compass, a map and a personal locator beacon but leave the altimeter at home. On longer, more complex trips, on the other hand, you might take everything to help you navigate. When deciding what to bring, consider factors such as the weather, the difficulty of the trip, its length and how far you will be from help. If you would like more information about each of the 10 Essentials, stay with us until the end of the article. 1- Navigation Navigation tools for travelling in pristine and remote areas include five items: a map, a compass, an altimeter, a GPS device and a personal locator beacon (PLB). We look at each of them in more detail below: Map: On every trip, except short ones where getting lost is impossible, you should carry a topographic map. Compass: If you get lost in a remote area, a compass combined with map-reading skills is a vital tool for finding the right way. Many mobile phones, GPS devices and smartwatches also include an electronic compass, but it is better to use a standard compass, because its very low weight and the fact that it needs no batteries make it an essential backup device. Note: In an emergency, a compass with a mirror can help you reflect sunlight so that helicopters or rescuers can find you. GPS device: A GPS device lets you find your exact location on a digital map. GPS units designed specifically for remote trips are usually built to be rugged and waterproof. Another popular option is to use a GPS app on your mobile phone, but keep in mind that most phones are fragile and you will need a case or pouch to protect them. In any case, whichever you choose, remember that these devices run on batteries, so you need to manage how much you use them and perhaps carry a few spare batteries. Altimeter watch: Carrying this navigation tool is especially important. It uses a barometric sensor to measure air pressure, or it uses GPS data to make an accurate estimate of your elevation. This information helps you follow the right route and determine your position on the map. Personal locator beacon or satellite messenger: If you need help in a remote area, these devices let you alert emergency personnel. When you activate them in an emergency, they determine your exact location and send a message via commercial or government satellites. If things go badly, carrying a personal locator beacon or satellite messenger can be a great help. They work especially well in remote areas and in places where your mobile phone cannot get a signal. 2- Headlamp/flashlight Being able to find your way along backcountry trails at night is essential, so you should always carry a light source. Headlamps are the best option and are chosen by most backcountry travellers. With a headlamp your hands are free, which makes any activity, from cooking dinner to holding tent poles, much easier. Be sure to always carry a few spare batteries too. 3- Sun protection You should always wear and carry sunglasses, protective clothing and sunscreen. Failing to do so can cause sunburn or short-term snow blindness, and in the long term conditions such as premature skin aging, skin cancer and cataracts. Sunglasses: Wearing high-quality sunglasses is essential to protect your eyes from harmful rays. If you plan to go on a long trip across snow or ice, you will need very dark glasses designed for snowy terrain. All the sunglasses sold in the Dobisell online store block 100 percent of ultraviolet rays (UVA and UVB), which is the key feature of quality sunglasses. UVB rays, which can burn your skin, can also cause cataracts. People travelling in a group should carry at least one spare pair of glasses, because someone may lose theirs or may not have brought any at all. Sunscreen: When you spend long hours outdoors, your skin is exposed to ultraviolet radiation, which can cause damage such as sunburn, premature skin aging and cancer. Using sunscreen is strongly recommended to reduce the effects of UV rays. Health experts advise considering the following when choosing a sunscreen: The formula's sun protection factor (SPF) should be at least 15, although for long activities outdoors it should be 30. The formula should block both UVA and UVB rays. Apply sunscreen generously and spread it thoroughly over all skin exposed to the sun. Snow and water can reflect UV rays, so when applying sunscreen, don't forget areas such as under your chin and your nose. Depending on many factors (such as the time of day, sweat and others), you should reapply sunscreen every two hours. Sun-protective clothing: Wearing suitable clothing is a very good way to stop UV rays from reaching your skin without needing sunscreen (don't forget that you still need to apply sunscreen to the parts of your skin exposed to sunlight, such as your face, neck and hands). Many lightweight garments have an Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) rating, which indicates how effective they are against UVB and UVA rays. Wide-brimmed hats are an important item of clothing for protecting your skin from the sun. 4- First aid Carrying first aid supplies and knowing how to use them is vital. Pre-assembled first aid kits make things much easier, although many people customize them to their personal needs. Every kit should include blister treatments, adhesive bandages in various sizes, several gauze pads, adhesive tape, antiseptic ointment, over-the-counter pain relievers, nitrile gloves, and a pen and paper. The length of your trip and the number of people in your group affect what your first aid kit should contain. It is also a good idea to carry a compact guide to using medical supplies in emergencies. 5- Knife A knife is useful for repairing gear, preparing food, first aid, lighting fires and other essential needs, and is one of the most important items for any trip. Every adult in the group should carry a knife. A basic knife may have only a single folding blade, but more advanced knives and multi-tools may include one or two flathead screwdrivers, a bottle opener or folding scissors. The more complex your needs are (for example, if you are heading to a new, unfamiliar place), the more tools you will need on your knife or multi-tool. In addition to a knife, a gear repair kit may also come in handy in remote areas and harsh conditions (the more remote the area you are in, the more you will need these items). Common items include duct tape, cord, fabric adhesive, zip ties, safety pins and repair parts for water filters, buckles, snowshoes and skis. 6- Fire In an emergency, you should have the means to build a fire with you. Many people use a disposable butane lighter for this, but matches are also a very good option as long as they are waterproof or kept in a waterproof container. Note that paper matchbooks are often very thin and fragile and are not suitable for use in the outdoors. A fire starter, as its name suggests, helps you light a fire, and carrying one is essential in wet conditions. An ideal fire starter ignites quickly and keeps burning for more than a few seconds. Your options include dry tinder packed in a plastic bag, candles, putty, heat tabs (shredded wood soaked in resin) and even bits of lint from household dryers. For trips such as travelling in treeless or snowy areas where firewood is not available, a stove is a good idea for providing emergency heat and a source of water. 7- Emergency shelter Always carry some kind of emergency shelter so that, if you get stranded or injured on the trail, you can protect yourself from wind and rain. Your options include an ultralight tarp, a bivy sack, an emergency blanket (which is very small and weighs only a few grams) or even a large garbage bag. Note that your tent counts as an emergency shelter only if you always have it with you (a tent left behind at the campsite is no use). 8- Extra food Always try to carry at least one extra day's worth of food, so that if something extends your trip (such as bad weather or an injury) you won't run into trouble. It is best to bring foods that need no cooking and have a long shelf life. Energy tablets, nuts and dried fruit are all good choices. Note that if you are heading out on a long trip or a winter adventure, you should bring more than one extra day's worth of supplies. 9- Extra water Always remember that carrying enough water for your trip, and having a way to purify water while you are out, is vital. This could be a filter, a purification device or chemical treatment, or a stove for melting snow. When deciding exactly how much water to bring, keep in mind that most people drink about half a litre of water per hour during activity under normal conditions. You may need more depending on factors such as air temperature, altitude, exertion level or emergency situations. As a starting point, always carry at least one bottle or water jug. Then, at the start of your trip, fill your bottle or jug from a source of drinking water. 10- Extra clothing The weather in remote areas can suddenly turn wet, stormy or very cold. You may also be injured during an unplanned detour. For this reason, in addition to the clothing you need for the trip itself, it is essential to carry some extra clothes. When deciding what type of clothing you need, think about what you would need to survive in difficult conditions for a long time without moving. Common options include a base layer (top and bottom), a regular hat or a balaclava (a hat that covers the head and neck, with openings only for the nose and eyes), extra socks, extra gloves, and an insulated vest or jacket. For winter trips, also carry insulating layers to cover your torso and legs.

Every kind of recreation requires equipment suited to its environment. Mountaineering is more than a pastime; it is a serious sport, and without the necessary gear the risk of accidents rises. Choosing the best mountaineering sunglasses must be done carefully and strictly, because they protect your eyes from rocks, dust, water, UV rays and more. By understanding the factors that make up the best mountaineering sunglasses, we can protect our eyes from the hazards of the mountain environment. Choosing the right glasses for each sport is one of the most important decisions an athlete makes. A professional mountaineer knows what eye care their work demands. In this article, we look at the factors you should keep in mind when choosing suitable mountaineering glasses. Sunglasses come in different frame styles. When buying sunglasses, we need to consider several important factors. Perhaps the most important is a frame that suits our face, and by knowing the frame styles and the geometric shape of our own face, we can make the best choice. Styles include round, butterfly, cat-eye, aviator, geometric, wayfarer (everyday), oval, square and rectangular. Aviator glasses suit a variety of faces. Diamond-shaped faces suit oval and round frames; oval faces can wear polygonal and square frames; round faces can wear aviator and butterfly frames; and rectangular faces can wear any frame except rectangular and square ones. 1. Lens types There are several categories of lenses: Category 1 These offer minimal eye protection and are usually known as "fashion glasses". You may feel that wearing them is the best idea. However, you should know that they do not protect your eyes from the intense sunlight at high altitude. Category 2 This category of sunglasses filters out 20–45% of ultraviolet rays through the lens. This category is not useful for mountaineering either. Both of these categories are generally suitable for strolling around town on a sunny afternoon. Category 3 Category III lenses block roughly 80% of ultraviolet rays. If you go hiking, this type is very useful. However, it is not enough for mountaineering. Category 4 Most mountaineering sunglasses usually fall into this group, letting through only 3–8% of UV rays. They also have a very low VLT rating. All of this helps protect your eyes from annoying glare and intense ultraviolet radiation, which can even burn your skin. 2. Polarization The next important point to remember is the polarization of the lenses. If your lens is polarized, it reduces annoying glare. When climbing to high altitudes, protecting your eyes from intense sunlight is essential. Polarized lenses do not have a significant effect on your eyes. They also give you a clearer image and better vision so that you can see your surroundings sharply. However, because of the polarization, it can sometimes be difficult to spot ice and snow. Some sunglasses use special coatings. The polarization may be reduced, but other types of coatings help you see perfectly clearly. There are even photochromic (transition) lenses that adapt to the amount of sunlight. As the sunlight increases, they darken automatically. This type of lens is very popular among mountaineers. 3. Additional coatings Additional coatings such as scratch-resistant and anti-fog layers can be very helpful at high altitude. If you search enough, you may even find sunglasses with both an anti-fog and a water-repellent coating. Together, these two coatings are the best option for humid regions. 4. Lens colour Lenses of different colours serve different functions. Different colours provide different levels of protection for your eyes. Some are only used in specific situations, and on complex climbs you may not be able to rely on a single lens colour. For this reason, you should take great care when choosing the lens colour of your mountaineering glasses. 5. Materials Another important factor is the material the sunglasses are made of. The material of the frame determines how long it lasts. The most common material is plastic, which is the least durable, and if you use it you must make sure your sunglasses are not put under stress. The most durable materials are alloys made from titanium or some hard metal alloys. Titanium may be a little more expensive, but it is the most durable and even the most flexible of them. In addition, you should consider the materials the lenses are made of: • The most common is glass. Most lenses are made of glass. Although it is scratch-resistant, it is quite likely to break. •If you compare a polycarbonate lens with a glass lens, you will find that it is more durable. It does not break easily, but it can be scratched easily. • Plastic is another common lens material. However, if you are looking for sunglasses for mountaineering, they are not very suitable. They cannot protect you from the strong ultraviolet rays of a high-altitude environment. • Polyurethane is the best material for mountaineering sunglass lenses. It is very strong and scratch-resistant. It even provides excellent optics. These lenses do not need additional coatings. If you can use polyurethane-lens sunglasses, you need not worry any more. They may be expensive, but they are very durable. 6. Side coverage When you are at high altitude, the cold wind blows from every direction. Since you will be wearing sunglasses, the area around them needs protection too. For this reason, manufacturers add side shields to mountaineering sunglasses, and these are usually removable, so you can take them off if you prefer. You can also wear protective goggles, since they cover your face completely. However, keep in mind that fogging is very likely. That is why removable shields are provided, to let air pass through. There are also a few types of sunglasses with vents that allow ventilation. The best mountaineering sunglasses brands Below, we briefly introduce some of the best mountaineering sunglasses brands. ... sunglasses among Iranian climbers.

With its remarkable climatic and geographical diversity, Iran is home to a treasure trove of magnificent, enchanting waterfalls scattered across its many provinces. From the lush forests of Gilan and Mazandaran to the highlands of Lorestan and Fars, and even the mountainous areas of the west, you can find the soothing sound of falling water and breathtaking scenery in every corner. Below, we take a friendly and engaging tour of Iran's most beautiful waterfalls to help you get to know these natural gems better. ● Waterfalls of Gilan Province Gilan Province is known for its ever-green landscapes, where the Hyrcanian forests, rushing rivers and dreamlike waterfalls give the region a magical character. ▪️ Laton Waterfall The tallest waterfall in Gilan, it lies near Astara (Kuteh Kumeh village) and reaches a height of about 105 metres. The trail to the waterfall passes through dense forests of walnut, hazelnut, wild pear and other trees. A three- to four-hour walk through nature makes for an unforgettable experience for adventure lovers. ▪️ Visadar Waterfall This waterfall is located near the town of Rezvanshahr (Parehsar). Visadar is about 15 metres high and sits along a scenic forest trail. Its semicircular rock formation and the cool air around it have made it a popular destination in spring and summer. ▪️ Dodozan Waterfall Located in the Shaft area near Khoramkesh village, it is about 54 metres high. Relatively easy access, dense forests all around and the chance to swim in the lower pool have made Dodozan one of the most appealing hangouts in the hot season. ● Waterfalls of Mazandaran Province With its mountainous, forested landscape, Mazandaran reaches the peak of its beauty in spring and summer. Countless small and large waterfalls in the province's dense forests and pristine pastures will captivate every visitor. ▪️ Safarud (Javaherdeh) Waterfall Located near the Ramsar–Javaherdeh road, it is full of water and especially spectacular in spring. The access route passes through Safarud Forest Park, and the surrounding mountain views, cool air and short walking trail are the reasons for its popularity among travellers. ▪️ Shahandasht Waterfall About 180 metres high, it lies in the Larijan area of Amol and is considered one of the tallest waterfalls in Mazandaran. Its multi-tiered structure and its proximity to the historic Malek Bahman Castle make a visit here both a historical and a natural experience. ▪️ Tirkan Seven Waterfalls Located in the Lafur Forest of Babol. Seven small and large waterfalls are linked together in the heart of ancient Hyrcanian forests, creating a pristine setting. A forest walk of about three kilometres, cool pools and endless greenery promise moments full of peace and delight. ● Waterfalls of Golestan Province Golestan, also famous for its Hyrcanian forests and attractive waterfalls, enjoys pleasant weather and lush scenery in spring and summer. ▪️ Shirabad Waterfall A series of several cascading waterfalls in the lush forests near the town of Khan Bebin and Shirabad village. Clear, cool pools make this an excellent destination for summer recreation. ▪️ Kaboodval Waterfall Located near Aliabad-e Katul, it is considered the only completely moss-covered waterfall in Iran. The soothing sound of water trickling through the green moss gives visitors an indescribable sense of freshness and coolness. ● Waterfalls of Western Iran and the Zagros The Zagros Range in western Iran is home to some of the country's tallest and most beautiful waterfalls. ▪️ Bisheh Waterfall (Lorestan) One of the most famous waterfalls in Lorestan, located near Dorud. At a height of nearly 48 metres amid oak forests, it offers an unparalleled view. The nearby railway line and good facilities make it easy to reach. ▪️ Ab-e Sefid Waterfall (Lorestan) Located in the Aligudarz area, it has earned the nickname "the Bride of Iran's Waterfalls" for its white foam. The water emerges from a tunnel inside the mountain and plunges into the pool below with a dreamlike roar. ▪️ Shevi Waterfall (Khuzestan) Located near Dezful, it is about 85 to 100 meters high and 40 to 70 meters wide, and is considered one of the largest waterfalls in the Middle East. The combination of the mountain setting, towering trees and the thunderous roar of the water creates an enchanting, adventurous atmosphere. ● Waterfalls of Central and Southern Iran Central Iran has more spectacular waterfalls than you might imagine, and in the south, a land of deserts and heat, you may sometimes be surprised by small but stunning waterfalls. ▪️ Ganjnameh Waterfall (Hamadan) It lies on the slopes of Alvand in Hamadan, where the historic Achaemenid inscriptions are also found. This blend of history and nature has made the waterfall one of the most popular destinations among domestic tourists. ▪️ Margoon Waterfall (Fars) Located near Sepidan, it holds the title of the tallest spring-fed waterfall in the world. Thousands of bubbling springs gush from the rocks and pour down like a spectacular curtain of water. ▪️ Kamardoogh Waterfall (Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad) It is known as the "bride of the waterfalls of Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad." It is full of water in every season, and its height has been reported to be as much as 100 meters. The surrounding mountain landscape offers visitors a setting full of silence and tranquility. Final Tips and Summary Iran's waterfalls, each with its own unique beauty and distinctive features, are hidden gems in the heart of the country's nature. The forests of the north, the mountains of the west and center, and even the southern and desert regions all have wonders of their own. Spring and summer are a good time to travel to these places, enjoy the coolness of the waterfalls, take photographs and escape the bustle of daily life with the soothing sound of falling water.If you love adventure, you can hike longer forest trails to reach lesser-known waterfalls. If you prefer easy access, waterfalls beside the road or near cities are a good choice. Some of these areas also have full amenities and are well suited to family picnics and camping. All you need to do is plan, pack the essentials and set off on an unforgettable trip; Iran is a land that is always happy to host you!

Iran has some of the most varied landscapes in the world, from the dense forests of the north to the quiet deserts and snow-covered mountains. But what really makes a trip enjoyable is choosing the right destination in the right season. In this guide, we look at the best nature travel destinations in Iran for each season, so you know exactly where to go and what kind of experience awaits you. Table of Contents: The best nature travel destinations in spring The best nature travel destinations in summer The best nature travel destinations in autumn The best nature travel destinations in winter Important tips before heading into nature Conclusion Frequently Asked Questions The Best Nature Travel Destinations in Spring Spring is the best time to see Iran's nature alive and green. The weather is usually mild, and everywhere is full of flowers and freshness. In this season, many parts of the country are at their very best, and you can head for the most attractive spring nature destinations. Alimestan Forest Alimestan Forest is located near Amol and is one of the most famous spring forests in Iran. With its misty views and lush green trails, it is very popular among nature lovers. Its vegetation includes hornbeam and beech trees and forest shrubs, and species such as wild boar, foxes and forest birds can be seen there. The combination of mist, green trees and the silence of the forest creates a completely peaceful atmosphere. Kalpush Poppy Plain This plain lies on the border between Semnan and Golestan provinces, and in spring it turns into a natural red carpet of wild poppies. Its vegetation mostly consists of rangeland plants and seasonal flowers, and small animals such as hares and plains birds can be seen there. This area is one of the most distinctive spring landscapes in Iran for photography. Why is spring the best time for nature travel?Because the weather is mild, nature is at its greenest, and hiking routes are usually in their best condition. The Best Nature Travel Destinations in Summer Summer is the best time to escape the heat and head to cooler areas. In this season, many of Iran's mountain and summer-pasture regions become the best destinations for travel and nature trips. Dar Gorge Dar Gorge is one of the most distinctive and exciting summer destinations in northern Iran, located near Nowshahr.It is a narrow gorge with tall rock walls and a cool river flowing along its length. Its vegetation includes dense trees, mosses and moisture-loving plants, and forest birds and small animals can be seen around it.The experience of wading through cool water between tall, shaded walls makes Dar Gorge a completely different summer destination: a place where you get to touch nature and escape the summer heat at the same time. Subatan Summer Pasture Subatan is one of the most beautiful summer pastures in northern Iran, located in the highlands of Talesh. Its vegetation includes wide meadows, wildflowers and scattered forests. Livestock such as horses and cattle graze in the open pastures, and mountain birds are among the wildlife in the area. The weather in Subatan is pleasantly cool in summer, and the combination of mist, green meadows and wooden huts creates a dreamlike atmosphere. Gahar Lake Gahar Lake lies in the heart of the Oshtorankuh range and is known as the “Jewel of the Zagros.” The surroundings are covered with mountain plants and oak trees, and species such as chukar partridge, wild goat and ibex can be seen in the area. The clear water of the lake beside the mountains creates a very calm and beautiful scene. Why is summer good for nature travel?Because you can go to cool mountain and summer-pasture areas and enjoy nature and pleasant weather without dealing with extreme heat. The Best Nature Travel Destinations in Autumn Autumn is the season of colors, when nature is at its most beautiful. At this time of year, many of Iran's forests and natural areas are transformed into extraordinary and distinctive landscapes. Dohezar and Sehezar Forests These forests lie in the highlands of Tonekabon and are among the best autumn destinations in Iran. The vegetation includes beech, maple and oak trees, which turn yellow, orange and red in autumn. Together with these colors, the autumn mist creates a completely cinematic atmosphere. Golestan National Park Golestan National Park is one of the oldest protected areas in Iran. The area has great plant and animal diversity, and species such as red deer, leopards and wild boar live there. In autumn, the blend of colors and the morning mist make this area truly special. Why is autumn a good time for nature travel?Because the weather is cool and pleasant, nature is at its most colorful, and thanks to the smaller crowds, you get a calmer and more enjoyable nature trip. Best Winter Destinations for Nature Travel Winter offers a different and distinctive kind of nature travel experience, and it suits adventure lovers best. In this season, some parts of Iran take on a completely different look and become attractive destinations for winter trips. Maranjab Desert Maranjab Desert lies north of Aran and Bidgol and is one of the most famous deserts in Iran. Its vegetation is very sparse and consists of drought-resistant plants, and animals such as the sand fox live there. In winter, the desert weather becomes very pleasant, and its night sky is spectacular. Lar Plain Lar Plain lies on the slopes of Damavand and is completely covered in snow in winter. The area has mountain vegetation, and species such as partridges and foxes can be seen there. The silence and whiteness of the plain create a calm and unusual atmosphere. Why is winter a good time for nature travel?Because it gives you the chance to experience true silence and peace in nature, and it puts completely different scenery in front of you: snowy mountains and quiet deserts. Important Tips Before Going on a Nature Trip Before any nature trip, it is best to keep a few simple but important points in mind. First of all, check the weather so that you are not caught off guard by bad conditions. Then bring essential gear such as suitable footwear, layered clothing, enough water and light snacks. Finally, choose your destination to suit the season and your physical fitness, so that the trip is both safe and more enjoyable. Conclusion Iran's nature has a different and distinctive face in every season. From lush spring forests to quiet winter deserts, every time of year can offer you a different experience. If you choose your destination to suit the season, your trip will be both more enjoyable and safer. Ultimately, the best time to travel is when nature is at its best. Frequently Asked Questions 1. What is the best season for nature travel in Iran? Spring and autumn usually offer the best conditions, but every season has its own special destinations. 2. Where should we go for a summer trip? Summer pastures and mountain areas such as Subatan and Lake Gahar are the best options. 3. Is a trip to the desert suitable in winter? Yes, winter is the best time for desert travel because the weather is milder. 4. Which forests in Iran are best for a trip? Alimestan Forest, the Dohezar and Sehezar forests, and Golestan Forest are among the best options.

In this article, we share some tips on how to avoid getting sick while travelling: Research your destination Visit the websites of the CDC (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention) and the World Health Organization. These sites provide information on the current health situation in different countries. They also offer advice on how to stay healthy while travelling. Consult a doctor Many healthcare systems have clinics with experienced staff who offer pre-travel advice. These clinics can give you recommendations tailored to your destination and prescribe medications you may need during your trip. If your insurance company does not recommend going to the travel clinics mentioned above, you can see your own doctor. Get vaccinated Many vaccinations need to be given months before your trip. Some health and medical measures, such as those related to malaria, must be taken before, during and after the trip. You should get an international health certificate from your doctor showing that your vaccinations are fully up to date. Carry essential hygiene items and first aid supplies. Check and restock your first aid kit: Make a list of the items you need. Replace anything that has been used up or has expired. Make a copy of your vaccination records and prescriptions. When you visit the travel clinic doctor, make sure your first aid kit contains enough medication. If you don't have a first aid kit, put one together or buy one from a suitable supplier. Feminine hygiene products: These products can be somewhat hard to find abroad, so plan ahead and bring everything you will need until the end of your trip. Hand sanitizer: Hot water and soap are the best option, but where they are not available, hand sanitizer is a good substitute. Learn first aid: Another important point to consider, especially if you are travelling somewhere far from facilities, is to take an emergency medical training course. Minimizing jet lag (Insomnia and discomfort caused by long flights or by time changes between different regions) When you travel to different regions, the time difference between your origin and your destination disrupts your body's biological clock, which in turn weakens your immune system. Flying makes this unavoidable, and you cannot prevent the problem completely, but there are steps you can take to reduce jet lag: Adjust your sleep schedule to your destination's bedtime. When you arrive, even if you are very tired, don't go to bed before sunset. By gradually adjusting your sleeping and waking hours, you can adapt to the new conditions more easily. Set aside a rest day at the beginning and end of your trip. At the start and end of a holiday or trip, it is best to allow one day to recover from jet lag. Also plan lighter activities for the first days of your trip. Practise good sleep habits. These are the same tips you have probably heard many times, or followed, at home: put away electronic devices such as your mobile phone before bed, avoid caffeine, and so on. Follow the advice for sleeping better, and bring along anything you need at home to sleep well. Sleeping well while travelling will boost your immune system. Take care during the flight Being in a cramped, crowded space with all kinds of people requires proper ventilation. Other protective measures during the flight are somewhat more limited, but you can keep the following in mind: Drink plenty of fluids. The aircraft cabin has low humidity, so you need to drink enough fluids to keep your nasal lining and mouth from drying out. When these two areas stay moist, foreign particles trying to enter the body through the mouth and nose are more likely to be trapped. Wash your hands often. If that isn't possible, use hand sanitizer. Book a window seat. This will help you avoid sitting next to a fellow passenger who may be ill. Drink only safe, potable water Along with drinking plenty of fluids, make sure the water you drink is safe. Here are a few tips for preventing illnesses caused by contaminated water: If you are not sure the water is safe, be very careful. Drink bottled mineral water or water that you have disinfected (for example, by boiling it). In areas where the water may be contaminated, avoid ice; freezing water does not kill the pathogens in it. For ice, you need to be sure the water was disinfected beforehand. Avoid food that has been washed with unsafe water or grown in soil irrigated with non-potable water. Eating such food may introduce bacteria or parasites into your body. Be sure that any uncooked vegetables are safe, and be careful with fruit that cannot be peeled completely. Rinse your mouth or brush your teeth with safe, treated water. Avoid swimming in water that may be contaminated. Eat safe food Trying local dishes is a big part of any trip, but don't overdo it. Along with sampling the local food, keep the following tips and risks in mind: Be careful when choosing street food. Pay attention to how the vendor prepares the food. Avoid food that has been sitting in a display case all day. Reheating food does not necessarily kill all the bacteria that have settled on it during the day. If you are not sure a place has a refrigerator, do not eat dairy products or dishes made with dairy. This is especially important in tropical regions. If you are travelling with a child, bring some food from home. This way, their digestive system is at less risk. Use insect repellent Mosquitoes and other insects can carry a variety of diseases, such as malaria, yellow fever, Zika, West Nile virus, sleeping sickness and more. Ticks can also carry diseases such as Lyme disease. A little research will tell you which insects are found at your destination. Protect yourself from sunburn In some environments the intensity of ultraviolet (UV) radiation is high, as it is in sunlight reflected off snow or water. The best precautions are to use sunscreen and to cover your body with suitable clothing. For extra protection, wear shoes Walking barefoot on a holiday or trip is appealing, but your feet may get hurt. When you do, there is a risk of cutting your feet on sharp objects, insect bites and so on. In addition, feet that are not used to a lot of sun exposure can get severely sunburned. Although following the tips below will not necessarily prevent illness, you should keep them in mind before you travel: Have health insurance Contact your insurance company and find out what coverage you have in other countries. Many travel insurance companies also offer health insurance. Find out about medical coverage in other regions Make sure your destination country has adequate medical facilities, and find out how far they are from where you are staying. If the distance is very great, you may face heavy costs. So if you plan to travel to a region like this, make sure your insurance company will cover the expenses.

Although headlamps have become very popular, a flashlight is a good choice whenever you prefer a handheld light, for example: When you need a powerful, portable spotlight. When skill and precision in controlling the light are very important. When you want to set the light down and aim it while you work on something. For signaling. Advances in LED (light-emitting diode) technology and battery efficiency have produced flashlights that are smaller, lighter and brighter than those of a few years ago. Important factors in flashlights and headlamps The main factors to compare when choosing a flashlight are: Light output Battery type and run time Size and weight Flashlight prices range from under $20 to over $200, yet the lights may be the same size. So what is the difference? Brightness is the biggest difference. More expensive flashlights are more powerful because they use more advanced bulb, battery and circuit technology. A flashlight will also cost more if it has a rechargeable battery and features such as impact and water resistance, protection against overheating and multiple lighting modes. If you plan to buy in a store, check the following: How is the light switched on and off? Does it turn on by itself inside your bag? Or, if you plan to use it in cold weather, can you easily switch it on and off while wearing gloves? Is the flashlight powerful enough to get your jobs done? (Does it give enough light?) Does it feel good in the hand? Does it need a tool to change the battery? Flashlight performance The ANSI FL1 standards, introduced for flashlights in 2009, assure you that a flashlight has been tested and rated. Compliance with these standards is voluntary and manufacturers carry out their own tests, but most brands today print the following performance figures on their packaging, including how the flashlight performs. Light output Light output is measured in lumens. It is a measure of the intensity of the light that comes out of the flashlight. The measurement is taken with the flashlight set to its highest brightness and fitted with new batteries. Light output may be listed for each lighting setting. This is a common basis for comparison, but it does not tell the whole story about brightness. Beam intensity, distance and type all affect how effective a flashlight is. Light output can range from 20 lumens (suitable for reading a book) to 3,500 lumens, which is extremely intense. Beam distance Beam distance is measured in meters. It means how far the flashlight shines before the light fades to the level of the light from a full moon. The brightness of a full moon is enough for safe and careful travel outdoors. Run time Run time is measured in hours. It is how long it takes for the light output to drop to 10 percent of its initial level with new batteries. Light output may decline gradually over time, or it may stay largely constant and then drop suddenly. Run time is usually given for each lighting setting. A run-time graph, if available, gives the best picture of how the light performs over time. Impact resistance Impact resistance is measured in meters. For testing, the lights are dropped onto concrete 6 times from various heights. The test is meant to confirm that a flashlight that is dropped accidentally will still work. It is not, however, meant to show how well a flashlight withstands being hit by a heavy object or being used to strike other objects. Water resistance Water resistance is rated using the IPX system. If you use a flashlight in rainy weather or near water, its resistance to water becomes important. Three ratings are used. An IPX4 rating is given after a splash test. This test is meant to confirm that the flashlight is water resistant from every angle. It also indicates the degree of water ingress. _IPX7 Temporary submersion: up to 30 minutes at a depth of 1 meter _IPX8 Submersion: up to 4 hours at a specified depth For more on the technical aspects of lighting, read how to choose headlamps, or the article of recommendations from REI staff. Additional features and performance Some or all of these characteristics, which have no ANSI rating, will influence your choice of flashlight: Bulb type Advances in LED technology have made other types of bulbs almost obsolete. Filament bulbs, such as krypton bulbs, are still found in some flashlights. It is hard to beat an LED flashlight in energy efficiency, run time, impact resistance and lighting options. Beam type The lens reflector surrounding the bulb affects how the light is spread. Three common types are: Flood (or fixed): A single beam width. Suitable for ordinary tasks around camp or while hiking. Spot (or focused): A single narrow beam in the spotlight that lets it reach a long distance. This type is suitable for finding a trail or for other fast-moving activities. Adjustable: The beam width varies from wide to focused. For example, a climber looking for the next slope should use a focused beam, but reading a map calls for a fixed, wide beam. Regulated light output Flashlights with a regulated power supply give steady, bright light for the whole life of the battery. At the end, however, the light output suddenly and dramatically drops. Unregulated flashlights start out bright and gradually dim as the battery drains. Battery type The type of battery and the availability of replacements are often a factor when choosing a flashlight. Disposable: The most common battery sizes are AAA and AA, and they are easy to find. CR123A is also a common type, but it is more expensive and harder to find. Its higher output voltage suits lightweight flashlights and lets a flashlight with a small package produce a lot of light. Flashlights that use D cells are still available too, as long as you don't mind their size and bulk. Rechargeable: Lithium-ion batteries can be charged through a USB connection from a computer, an AC or DC outlet, or a solar panel. If you spend a little more at the start and buy a rechargeable battery, you won't need to keep buying disposable ones. Renewable: Flashlights with an internal battery that is charged through a solar panel are well suited to an emergency kit. Caution: Do not use lithium or lithium-ion batteries in any flashlight unless the manufacturer recommends it. If a lithium battery is not compatible with the flashlight, the flashlight will be damaged. Modes One setting is enough for ordinary use. Some models offer two or more modes, such as low, medium, high and boost. You will probably rarely use more than one mode, but having the option of a powerful beam on demand can be reassuring. The brighter the mode you set the flashlight to, the shorter the run time. Some models may offer modes such as strobe or an SOS feature. User-programmable modes or mode sequences are a plus. This may be a feature built into the flashlight, or it may be set in software and loaded onto the flashlight through a USB cable. Controls The type of on/off button and brightness mode switch matters to some users. Push-button or slide switches are usually operated with the thumb. A rotating bezel can also act as a switch, and it takes both hands to use. A safety lock feature prevents the flashlight from switching on accidentally and protects the battery from damage. Some of these flashlights have a tail-switch (clickless) function, in which the switch activates the light with lighter pressure, so you don't need to press a full click or release the switch to turn the light on. This type of flashlight can be turned off in any mode without twisting, which is a desirable feature in itself. Materials and shape The bodies of most flashlights are made of plastic or aluminum alloy. A stainless steel head is meant to give greater resistance to impact. Not all aluminum bodies are the same: thinner bodies are lighter, and thicker ones are sturdier. Cylindrical bodies are the most common shape, but since they roll when placed on a surface, some models are designed to prevent rolling. In addition, the surface of the body may have a textured pattern to give a better grip and reduce slipping. Size and weight This is mostly a matter of preference. A bigger, heavier flashlight is not necessarily brighter, but because of its larger battery capacity it will probably stay on longer. Accessories Items that may be sold separately or included with the flashlight include a lanyard, a belt clip or leather case, and lens filters and light diffusers, which relate to the lighting.

No one doubts the importance of proper hiking clothing. You have probably heard some mountaineers say that there is no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong clothes. This article will help you choose the right clothing for hiking and mountaineering. What should you wear for hiking? (A quick checklist of hiking clothing) No jeans or cotton T-shirts: Cotton holds on to water, makes you sweat in hot weather, and makes you cold when the air cools down. Underwear (and other clothes) made of polyester, nylon and merino wool: These materials wick sweat away from your skin and dry quickly. That makes them an ideal choice for underwear, T-shirts, sports bras and socks. The moisture-management ability of these fibres is also useful for your other clothes. Comfortable, sturdy trousers: The trails you will be walking are full of twists and turns, so you need to be able to move easily. Branches and rocks can also snag yoga pants or thin, stretchy trousers. Warm jacket: A polyester fleece is considered the best option. However, a warm, waterproof jacket with a polyester lining is a smart choice for colder weather. Rain jacket: Waterproofness and breathability are the two features to pay attention to. That is, a rain jacket should block wind and rain, while not making you feel like you are wearing a plastic bag when you sweat. If the weather is very wet, take rain trousers too. Brimmed hat: This hat keeps your head dry and out of the sun. The brim protects your eyes from rain and sunlight (but bring sunglasses as well). Clothing strategies for hiking If you want to be more serious about your hiking clothing, keep these tips in mind when shopping: Take layering seriously: This strategy has proven itself. In general, each layer of clothing has its own specific function, and by adding or removing layers you can adapt to the conditions around you. Anticipate the conditions: Your health and safety depend entirely on what you carry with you. Remember that your vehicle may be miles away and weather forecasts are not always right. So prepare yourself for unexpected conditions such as colder, wetter or hotter weather. Focus on function, not fashion: Remember that it is pointless for what you wear to be fashionable if it is no use to you. Consider comfort, durability, weight and price: Before buying, weigh up the options and take your personal preferences and budget into account. An ultralight gear set is a very good choice, but a very expensive one. Get good boots or shoes: Footwear is one of the most important things you wear when hiking, so you should decide on it carefully. Key points about the fibre properties of hiking clothing No matter what your hiking clothing looks like or what it is made of, you need different layers to get different properties. Moisture wicking: This property is very important in the first layer, or any layer that is in direct contact with the skin. It lets the fibres move moisture from the skin to the next layer so that it dries quickly. This way, your sweat evaporates and dries without making you cold. Insulation: This property is key for the middle layer and keeps you warm. Clothes in this layer are not warm in themselves, but if they have insulating properties, they can trap your body heat well. Waterproofing and windproofing: These are very important in the third, or outer, layer. They stop you getting soaked in the rain or chilled in windy weather. Note that jackets described as water- or wind-"resistant" do not block rain and wind completely and offer only moderate protection. Also, waterproof jackets usually do not state whether they are windproof, but they usually have both properties. Breathability: This property matters in all layers and helps clothes dry quickly. If not all the layers you are wearing are breathable, the moisture released from your skin will end up trapped in one layer and make you cold. Waterproof and breathable: Advanced outer layers combine these two properties. Even so, the most advanced technologies prioritise blocking wind and rain, so when humidity rises they struggle with ventilation. Outer layers without ventilation are cheaper, but wearing them feels like sitting in a sauna in a plastic bag. Sun protection: Clothes with an ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) can protect your skin from harmful ultraviolet rays. Basic fibres for hiking clothing Here is a list of common fibres you can choose from. Wool: Old wool and knitwear used to make the skin itchy, but modern knitwear does not. Merino wool in particular has soft fibres that are breathable and wick moisture, and it dries quickly and does not hold on to odours. Nylon and polyester clothing: These garments are more affordable than merino wool, wick moisture well, dry quickly and are also recyclable. One downside is that they may not smell good; that is why some of these fabrics are treated with antimicrobial agents to try to stop bacteria from growing. Knitwear: Knitted sweaters are actually made of polyester, and their warmth comes more from their thick, soft fibres than from the chemicals used to make them. Nylon and polyester jackets: Wearing these jackets as an outer layer (for example a rain jacket or shell) protects you from wind and rain. Silk: Silk is not very good at wicking moisture, so it is not an ideal choice for tough hikes and climbs. Processed silk wicks moisture better. Silk is soft and luxurious, but it does not perform very well in terms of durability or resistance to odour. Cotton: Cotton is very poor at wicking moisture and drying, and it is excellent at keeping you wet and cold. If the weather is very hot and you don't mind cotton clothes clinging to your body, you can wear them, but in cold weather a cotton base layer will make you catch a chill. That is why experienced climbers say cotton kills. The base layer in mountaineering clothing In relatively cold weather, a little warmth and a great deal of moisture-wicking ability are the most important features base layer clothing should have. Underwear: The style and type of underwear you wear is entirely up to you. Cotton is still a big "no". Also make sure your underwear does not chafe your skin. That is why seamless designs are the best choice for hiking and climbing. Bra: The best option is a sports-style bra without hooks, so it does not irritate your skin when you wear a backpack. Undershirt or camisole: A lightweight undershirt can also help keep you warm in cold weather, and it is a suitable, lighter alternative to a T-shirt. Base layer top and bottoms: These are available in all weights: light, medium and heavy. Choose the weight you need based on the climate and on whether you tend to feel hot or cold. Crew-neck tops are more affordable, but tops with a zip neck are more practical, as you can adjust them to the warmth or chill of the air. You can wear base layer bottoms under your hiking trousers for extra protection and warmth. If it rains, you can also wear rain trousers over them. Should you wear briefs under long underwear? There is no definitive answer to this question, so do whatever you find more comfortable. It is usually not necessary to wear briefs, but some people wear them for extra protection and warmth. Other clothing options for hiking and climbing In total, you need a base layer, a mid layer and an outer layer (rain jacket and trousers). Below you can see the other options available to you. Hat: If you are hiking in sunny, dry places, you should wear a large wide-brimmed hat. These hats are also suitable for humid, rainy weather. For cold weather, take a warm knitted or synthetic-fibre hat to keep your head warm. Shirt: A short-sleeved T-shirt is suitable for hot weather, and a long-sleeved T-shirt for relatively cooler weather. When it is sunny, wear a long-sleeved shirt that protects you from the sun's rays (many have a fold-up collar to protect the neck). Shorts, trousers and zip-off convertible trousers: Convertible trousers have many fans because you no longer need to choose between trousers and shorts. Quick-drying fabrics are a priority here as well. Six-pocket trousers are also very popular among hikers because of their roominess. Yoga pants? They are flexible, but not very resistant to rocks and branches. Skirts, dresses and skorts: They are highly flexible, very durable and have a lining. Gloves and socks: Depending on the weather, you can wear thick or thin gloves and socks. Your socks should be taller than your shoes, and to be safe, bring an extra pair of socks too. Insulated, waterproof gloves are the best choice for winter, and mittens are always warmer than regular gloves. Gaiters: Gaiters are worn over the shoe and leg like leg warmers, and they keep dust, gravel, rain and even insects out of your shoes. The mid layer in mountaineering clothing This is the layer that keeps you warm. A sensible suggestion is to take a lightweight fleece jacket and a lightweight windproof jacket that both fit in your backpack. Fleece jacket: You can wear a fleece jacket on cold days, and on cooler days use it when you are resting. Fleece jackets come in different weights, so choose one that suits the weather and whether you tend to feel hot or cold. Fleece trousers: If the weather is very cold, fleece trousers are the best mid-layer option. In most cases, though, long underwear provides the warmth you need. Insulated jackets or vests: If the weather is mild, a fleece jacket is enough. If it is colder, take a jacket as well. If the insulation inside a jacket gets wet, the jacket can no longer retain heat, which is why synthetic-fibre insulation is the better choice. You can also take a waterproof jacket, or use a jacket that is both waterproof and insulated. The outer layer of mountaineering clothing: rain jacket and pants Even a clear, sunny sky can turn into a storm with rain within seconds. Staying dry is the key to avoiding hypothermia, so be sure to bring a rain jacket and waterproof pants. Note that on dry days you can also wear the outer layer for protection against the wind. Environmental conditions Some trips come with their own particular challenges. Ask the locals whether they have any suggestions about the kind of clothing you should wear. For example: Insect-repellent clothing: If you are hiking in areas with lots of trees and bushes, the chance of encountering various insects and mosquitoes is very high. So don't forget long-sleeved shirts, long pants and insect-repellent clothing. Tall leather hiking boots: Wearing them may not seem sensible in desert areas, but they can protect you against snakes. Waterproof gaiters: If you are crossing snowy areas, you need gaiters. When the snow melts, gaiters and waterproof shoes really come in handy.

The national “Simorgh of Iran's Mountains” project is a development-oriented initiative in mountain tourism, run by the Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation of the Islamic Republic of Iran. Its main aim is to promote and climb the highest peak of each of the country's 31 provinces as sport-tourism attractions. The national project was launched in autumn 1395 (Solar Hijri) and officially opened to all active climbers in 1396. To earn the Simorgh mountaineering badge, participants must climb the highest peak in each province of Iran (31 peaks in total). Besides promoting mountaineering as a sport, one of the project's key goals is to introduce climbers to the rich culture, local customs and sights of different regions of Iran. The Federation created the project as a national mountaineering-tourism scheme, inspired by similar international projects such as the 8,000ers club, the Snow Leopard award and the Seven Summits (the highest peak on each of the 7 continents). Taking part in the Simorgh project requires following the rules set by the Federation. Under these rules, climbs must be carried out under the supervision of mountaineering clubs approved by the Federation, and to receive the Simorgh badge you must submit a report of the climb along with photos from the summit. In keeping with the importance of climbers' safety, the project pays particular attention to climbers' insurance, and solo or unofficial climbs are not permitted. Note also that, to keep climbers safe given the weather and the cold, winter climbs of 26 of the peaks are suspended from the start of Azar (late November); during this period only the four southern peaks of the country and Barfanbar Peak in Qom are open without restriction. So far the project has been very well received: more than 100 climbers have climbed all the peaks and received the Simorgh badge. This response reflects the project's popularity in Iran's mountaineering community. List of the Simorgh Project Peaks The Simorgh project involves climbing 31 high peaks in the 31 provinces of Iran. The list below gives these peaks along with their province and approximate height. Note that heights reported in different sources may differ slightly. List of the Simorgh Project Peaks Sabalan in Ardabil Province, approximate height 4811-4818 Shahan Kuh in Isfahan Province, approximate height 4040-4044 Kan Seyfi in Ilam Province, approximate height 2910-3050 Kamal (Quchgoli) in East Azerbaijan Province, approximate height 3707-3767 Orin in West Azerbaijan Province, approximate height 3651-3702 Shah Alborz in Alborz Province, approximate height 4150-4170 Birmi in Bushehr Province, approximate height 1950-1970 Khalenow in Tehran Province, approximate height 4350-4390 Kolonchin in Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari Province, approximate height 4221-4250 Nayband in South Khorasan Province, approximate height 2853-3005 Shirbad in Razavi Khorasan Province, approximate height 3303-3327 Shahjahan in North Khorasan Province, approximate height 3032-3081 Kino in Khuzestan Province, approximate height 3700-3761 Belqeys in Zanjan Province, approximate height 3332-3363 Shahvar in Semnan Province, approximate height 3905-3910 Taftan in Sistan and Baluchestan Province, approximate height 3911-3941 Bol in Fars Province, approximate height 3943-3953 Syalan in Qazvin Province, approximate height 4197-4250 Barfanbar in Qom Province, approximate height 3233-3260 Quli Zoleykha in Kurdistan Province, approximate height 3195-3250 Hezar in Kerman Province, approximate height 4500-4501 Parav in Kermanshah Province, approximate height 3390-3405 Qash Mastan in Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad Province, approximate height 4436-4450 Gavkoshan in Golestan Province, approximate height 3800-3841 Samamus in Gilan Province, approximate height 3050-3716 Sanbaran in Lorestan Province, approximate height 4100-4150 Damavand in Mazandaran Province, approximate height 5609-5610 Domir in Markazi Province, approximate height 3400-3505 Tashgar in Hormozgan Province, approximate height 2340-3327 Kubari (Glacier) in Hamadan Province, approximate height 3586 Shirkuh in Yazd Province, approximate height 4075 Detailed Introduction to the Simorgh Project Peaks • Mount Damavand Mount Damavand, at 5609 meters above sea level, lies in Mazandaran Province, in Amol County. It is the highest peak in Iran and in West Asia, and is also considered a dormant (semi-active) volcano, standing in the center of the Central Alborz range, south of the Caspian Sea. Thanks to its special place in Iranian mythology and folklore, Damavand has great cultural importance. In clear weather this majestic peak can be seen from Tehran, Varamin and Qom, as well as from the southern shores of the Caspian Sea. The soil of Damavand consists mainly of volcanic ash, and the vegetation varies with altitude. Below 2000 meters, especially on the northern slopes, there are forests of cypress, pine, oak, boxwood and silk tree (Albizia). Between 2000 and 3000 meters, pastures and meadows spread out, and at 3000 meters and below, wild poppies grow, said to have medicinal properties. Between 3000 and 4000 meters you can see several kinds of astragalus (milkvetch), thorny plants and seasonal flowers. Above 4200 meters, the area has no vegetation at all. Native and medicinal plants of the region include Damavand yarrow, Damavand groundsel, clover dodder and thyme dodder, kazal, ram's beard, forget-me-not, bellflower, Damavand iris, mound sainfoin, rock gypsophila and Kolah-Mir Hasan. In terms of wildlife, Mount Damavand is home to a wide variety of animals. Foxes, jackals, dogs and wolves can be seen around the mountain, and these species live even at altitudes of 4,000 meters. Bears have also been sighted in the northern and western parts of the mountain. In addition, herbivores such as gazelles, hares, wild sheep and wild boar live in the area. The sky above Damavand is home to birds of prey such as the golden eagle, owls and bats, and partridges, parrots and woodpeckers are other bird species found on this mountain. In recent years, sightings of leopards have also been reported in the Kuh-e Sefid area of Damavand. Livestock farming is also common on the slopes of Mount Damavand and the surrounding areas. In Damavand County, various pets and livestock are bought and sold, including Qawqaz dogs, Husky dogs, peacocks, local roosters, pigeons, budgies and camels. In addition, the Khorshid tourist farm in Damavand raises a variety of domestic animals, giving visitors a chance to get to know them. Climbing Damavand involves a number of hazards, the most important of which are altitude sickness, reduced oxygen levels, cold and unpredictable weather conditions. The steep gradient of the route in some places, the possibility of rockfall and getting lost are other potential dangers. Strong winds, storms and lightning can also make the climb difficult. Hypothermia and frostbite are serious dangers if climbers are not well prepared and properly equipped. In busy seasons, traffic on the climbing route can also cause problems. The number of injuries and deaths on the Damavand climbing routes is worrying and shows the need for full physical fitness, experience of climbing at high altitude, and suitable equipment. Reserving a place in the mountain hut and obtaining a climbing permit from the Mountaineering Federation are also essential safety requirements for climbing this peak. There are 16 different routes to the summit of Damavand, of which 4 routes (south, west, north and northeast) are recognized as the main routes. The south route, which starts from the villages of Polur and Reyneh, is the most common and generally the easiest climbing route, and has the Bargah-e Sevom hut. The west route starts from the city of Abadi and reaches the Simorgh hut at an altitude of 4,200 meters. The north route passes between the Siyoleh and Dobisel glaciers and has two emergency shelters at altitudes of 4,000 and 5,650 meters. The northeast route starts from the village of Gazanak and, following a long ridge, reaches the Takht-e Fereydun hut at an altitude of 4,300 meters; another route starts from the village of Haji Abad and the Ehsani sheepfold, and is shorter. In addition to these main routes, there are other secondary routes to the summit of Damavand, including the southeast, the south-northwest and the Yal-e Dagh ridge. To reach the starting points of the south and west routes, you can travel along the Haraz Road to the Polur and Reyneh areas, and the route through the village of Nandel is suitable for reaching the north routes. The huts on the main routes are Bargah-e Sevom on the south route, Simorgh on the west route, the 5000 shelter on the north route, and Takht-e Fereydun on the northeast route. Access to water varies along the Damavand climbing routes. On the south route, there is a spring at the Bargah-e Sevom hut. On the north route, the last water source is the sheepfold, about three kilometers before Sang-e Bozorg (the Big Rock); it may also be possible to collect water above the 5000 shelter and from the glacier. The northeast route offers access to water only at the sheepfold. On the west route, the glacier spring to the right of the Simorgh hut flows in all seasons. On the southeast and south-northwest routes, there is no spring along the way. • Sabalan Peak Sabalan Peak, at 4,811 meters above sea level, is located in Ardabil Province near the city of Meshgin Shahr. It is the third highest peak in Iran and a dormant volcano with a beautiful lake at its summit. Sabalan attracts tourists for the natural hot springs on its slopes, its beautiful summer scenery and the famous Alvares ski resort. The slopes of Sabalan have diverse vegetation, with more than 3,000 plant species. The natural pastures of this region are very rich, and plants such as barberry, garlic, carnation, wild rose, madder, borage, anemone, iris and tulip grow there. Hyacinth, basil, pennyroyal and milkvetch are other native plants of the area, which contribute to the production of high-quality honey. Mount Sabalan is home to a variety of wild animals, including brown bears, weasels, foxes, jackals, hares, sparrowhawks, owls, hoopoes, larks, swallows, martins, crows, golden eagles and wild boar. Wild goats, ibex and Armenian mouflon are also found in this region. Thanks to its rich pastures, the slopes of Sabalan are well suited to livestock farming, and beekeeping also thrives in the region, producing high-quality honey. Although detailed information about domestic animals around the summit is not available, mentions of sheep and goats in climbing reports suggest that livestock farming exists in the area. There is also a pet shop called Sabalan in Tehran, which may be named after this region. Climbing Sabalan Peak may involve hazards such as altitude sickness, cold, wind and the possibility of fog. The steep gradient on some routes, the presence of precipices and the similarity of the routes to one another are also things climbers need to pay attention to. Physical fitness and sufficient experience, attention to the guide flags, and caution against the danger of icing in winter are important safety tips for climbing this peak. There are three main routes to the summit of Sabalan. The northeast route is the most common; it starts from the Shabil hot spring and reaches the summit after passing the hut. The west route starts at the foot of Lake Qareh Gol and, after passing Harameh Chal and the Harameh glacier, reaches the west shelter and then the summit. The south route starts from the south side of the peak and, near the summit, leads to it via the east ridge; the Alvares ski resort is also located on this route. To reach the northeast route, you can travel via Ardabil to Meshgin Shahr and Lahrud, and the Ardabil–Meshgin Shahr road also provides access to Shabil. The Alvares ski resort is located on the south route. On the northeast route, the Shabil hot spring is at the start, and there is a spring near the shelter. On the west route, Lake Gharehgol is at the start. The south route has no shelter or water source along the way. Hot springs such as Shabil and Ghinarcheh are also found on the slopes of Sabalan. • Hezar Peak Hezar Peak, at 4,501 meters above sea level, is located in Kerman Province, south of the Rayen district. It is known as the highest peak in southern Iran and the central plateau, and it is said to have been given its name ("Hezar" means "thousand") because of the great diversity of its vegetation. Hezar is the source of the Yatehrud River, and near it stands a shrine resembling the shrines of the goddess Anahita. The slopes of the peak welcome climbers and nature lovers in spring and summer, and a stone shelter stands at an altitude of 3,100 meters. The highest inhabited place in Iran, the village of Bab Zangi at 3,309 meters, is also located on Mount Hezar. Mount Hezar has very diverse vegetation, with more than a thousand different plant species. Native plants of the area include anemone, thyme, yarrow, mofarrah, wild marjoram, wild celery, pennyroyal, ezgen, asafoetida, wormwood, astragalus, mushrooms, rhubarb, kal, wild lettuce, wild spring onion, koma, garchik and shurkuh wood. The wildlife of the area includes wolves, wild boar, ibex and wild goats, hares, foxes, chukar partridges, see-see partridges and squirrels. The pastures on the slopes of Mount Hezar are used by nomads for grazing livestock, and the high-altitude village of Bab Zangi shows the presence of animal husbandry in the area. Climbing Hezar Peak is considered a demanding, technical ascent with a difficult grade. At times, because of the spread of COVID-19, a ban on climbing this peak has been announced. The climb requires a high level of physical fitness and, on some routes, rock-climbing skills and a local guide. Altitude sickness is also possible at this elevation. There are various routes to the summit of Hezar. The north route runs from the village of Zarrud via the Rayen Waterfall to the Hezar shelter and is the most common route. The south route starts from the Ardekan area. The Bab Zangi route is the shortest route to the summit. The Mirshadi Valley route is another way up the peak. To reach the start of the climb, you can travel from Kerman to Rayen and then take the Rayen Waterfall road. The village of Ardekan is located southwest of the peak. On the north route up Hezar, there is a spring near the shelter. The south route is short of water, and no information about water access is available for the Ardekan route. The Bab Zangi route is also known as a low-water route. • Qash Mastan Peak Qash Mastan Peak, at 4,450 meters above sea level, is the highest peak of Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad Province and of the Dena range, as well as the highest peak of the great Zagros range. It is known as the roof of Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad Province and is on the list of peaks of the Simorgh Plan. The Dena range has a ridge roughly 90 kilometers long and lies between the three provinces of Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad, Isfahan and Fars. The town of Sisakht, the center of Dena County, lies on the slopes of this mountain. The name Qash Mastan derives from a famous legend in Ferdowsi's Shahnameh and from the rich culture of the Turkic nomads. The Dena range has diverse vegetation. At lower altitudes, dense oak forests can be seen, and other important plant species include wild pistachio, mountain almond, terebinth, hawthorn and astragalus. At higher altitudes, especially along the routes to Qash Mastan Peak, plants such as astragalus, zarrin giyah, bilhar and wild mountain mint also grow. Animal diversity in the Dena range is very high and includes large brown bears, see-see partridges, eagles, vultures, lammergeiers, leopards, wolves, wild cats (especially caracals), martens, weasels, Persian squirrels, falcons, saker falcons, chukar partridges, stone curlews, rock partridges and larks (various types of pouch-mouthed birds), as well as ibex and wild goats among the many species of Dena. Ibex and wild goats have been reported during climbs of Qash Mastan Peak. No precise information is available about domestic animals around the peak, but given the villages and nomads in the Dena area, livestock herding is likely in these regions. Because of its great height and the presence of glaciers, climbing Qash Mastan is considered one of the heavy and challenging ascents in Iran, with a difficult grade. In winter, the risk of avalanches and rockfall is very high, and crossing the glaciers requires caution and suitable equipment. The most common and easiest route up Qash Mastan starts from the village of Khafr in Padena. From the village, two routes lead to the shelter: the left-hand route past the Kuh-Dezh, which is shorter, and the right-hand route, which passes beside a waterfall and is longer but more pleasant. The south route over the Bonroo Pass, right below Qash Mastan Peak, also makes the climb possible, though it requires rope protection at the end. The west route can also be climbed from the village of Sisakht across the central ridge of Dena. To reach the village of Khafr, you need to travel from Semirom toward Yasuj. On the route up Qash Mastan from the village of Khafr, there are several springs and patches of snowmelt along the way. For the other routes, no precise information about water access is available. Midway along the climb from Khafr, the Qash Mastan shelter stands at an altitude of about 3,000 meters, which is a suitable place to set up camp. • Khalano Peak Khalano Peak, at 4,350 to 4,390 meters above sea level, is the highest peak of Tehran Province and the third highest peak in the Central Alborz after Damavand and Alam-Kuh. The peak is bordered to the south by Shemshak and the Roudbar-e Qasran valley, to the north by the valley of the Varangrud River, to the east by the Lar Plain (the Lavasanat area), and to the west it connects via the Harzehkuh ridge to the Karaj River valley. Khalano is the main source of the Varangrud River, which is the main feed of the Karaj Dam Lake. The vegetation of Khalenow Peak includes astragalus (gavan), golpar (hogweed), tulips, poppies, barberry, wild garlic (sir), lochak and nettle, all found in this area. In terms of wildlife, birds such as the golden eagle, the imperial eagle (homa), chukar partridge, see-see partridge, lark and hoopoe, and animals such as wild boar, wild rams and ewes, ibex and wild goat, brown bear and wolf live in this region. No precise information is available about domestic animals on the heights of Khalenow, but given the villages of Lalun and Shemshak near the peak, livestock herding is likely in these areas. Overall, Khalenow is a technical, high peak in the Central Alborz, and climbing it requires mountaineering experience and a high level of physical fitness. Crossing the ridges at an altitude of 4,300 meters adds to the relative difficulty of this climb. Climbing Khalenow alone is not recommended, and carrying navigation equipment and knowing the route well are essential. The most common route up Khalenow Peak starts from a gorge north of Lalun village (in Rudbar-e Qasran rural district). After passing the Talkhab Spring and Khalenow Waterfall, it reaches the Vazuab Pass and the Khalenow Cirque (Kaseh-ye Khalenow), and finally the summit. Other climbing routes include the Varangeh-rud Valley, Abnik village and Shemshak village (the winter route). On the route from Lalun village, there is the Talkhab Spring (not drinkable) and a fresh, pleasant spring after the waterfall and before the pass. On the Varangeh-rud Valley route, water is available at Do Ab and Khalenow Lake. • Kolunchin Peak Kolunchin Peak, at 4,221 to 4,250 meters above sea level, is the highest peak of the Zardkuh Bakhtiari range and the roof of Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari Province. After Dena Peak, it is the second-highest mountain in the Zagros range. The Zardkuh Bakhtiari range lies between the two large rivers Kuhrang and Bazoft. In the local dialect, Kolunchin means "stone-piler" (sangchin), and the name comes from the type of rock of this peak and the other peaks along the climbing route. The vegetation of Kolunchin Peak includes plants such as astragalus (gavan), zarrin-giah, bilhar and wild mint. Dense oak forests are also seen in this area. The wildlife of this region includes brown bear, leopard, ibex and wild goat, wild ram and ewe, see-see partridge, goshawk, peregrine falcon, golden eagle, horned viper, Mediterranean tortoise and ferruginous duck. No precise information is available about domestic animals on the heights of Kolunchin, but given the presence of nomads in the Zardkuh region, livestock herding is likely in these areas. Because of its great height and the glaciers, climbing Kolunchin Peak is considered one of the heavy and challenging climbs in Iran, and its difficulty grade is hard. In this month of the year (Mordad), you must move carefully across the glaciers and beware of the edges, melting collapsing layers and the thin ice of the glaciers. The common route up Kolunchin Peak passes through the East Valley, the second tunnel of the Kuhrang Dam and the Kul-e Khadang Gorge, and has no shelter. The winter route is possible via the east ridge and the Khersan hut. Other climbing routes include the north ridge (the first dam of the Kuhrang Tunnel and the Chal-e Mishan hut) and the east ridge (Khersan hut). To reach the starting point of the East Valley route, you must first go to Polur on the Haraz Road, then head toward the second tunnel of the Kuhrang Dam via the Federation base camp. Because of the glacier, most springs along the route up Kolunchin Peak are blocked and there is no drinking water. A limited amount of snowmelt may be found at the start of the valley. Near the campsite there is also a spring called "Mar Bori", whose water is clear and cold. The Chal-e Mishan and Khersan huts are located on the eastern slope of the peak, and there is water next to the Chal-e Mishan hut. • Sialan Peak Sialan Peak, at 4,175 meters above sea level, lies on the border of Mazandaran and Qazvin provinces in the Alborz range. To the north, the peak overlooks the Do Hezar Valley and the Daryasar Plain in Tonekabon County, and to the south it overlooks the Rudbar section of Eastern Alamut in Qazvin Province. In the local dialect, the name Sialan means "three ridges", because the peak stands where three ridgelines meet. The vegetation of Sialan Peak includes pine trees known as ores (juniper), mountain cypress, marshmallow flowers, mountain tea, valak and golpar (hogweed), which cover this region. In terms of wildlife, the area is a habitat for eagles, hares, chukar partridges, lizards, ibex and wild goats, and other wild mammals. No precise information is available about domestic animals on the heights of Sialan, but given the villages of Heniz and Asal Mahalleh near the peak, livestock herding is likely in these areas. The access routes to Sialan are long, and climbing it requires good physical fitness. A winter ascent of Sialan Peak can be dangerous because of the cold, heavy precipitation and strong winds, and requires specialized equipment. Sialan Peak can be climbed by three main routes: the southern route from Heniz village in Qazvin Province, which has a gentler slope and is more suitable for beginner climbers; the northern route from Asal Mahalleh village in Mazandaran Province, which is more complex and longer and passes beside the Daryasar Plain; and the ridge route, which passes the huts at the Kandigan Pass and is suitable for advanced climbers. On the southern route up Sialan Peak from Heniz village, there are several springs, including the Gol-e Pari Spring. On the northern route from Asal Mahalleh village, the Gurkhani Spring is located. The Rahnama Ghobadi Sialan hut stands at an altitude of 3,260 meters on the southern route, and the Yadbud hut is located on the northern route before Daryasar. • Shah Alborz Peak Shah Alborz Peak, at 4,150 to 4,175 metres above sea level, is the highest peak in Alborz Province and forms the natural border between Alborz and Qazvin provinces. Its southern slopes overlook the Taleqan Valley in Alborz Province, and its northern slopes overlook the Alamut Valley in Qazvin Province. The peak is also called Taleqan Peak. To the west, Shah Alborz connects to Zivarchal Peak, and its northern side is bounded by walls and high rock faces about 600 metres tall and by permanent glaciers. The vegetation of Shah Alborz includes apple, walnut, cherry, pear, wild barberry, hawthorn, plane and willow trees, as well as medicinal and ornamental herbs such as rhubarb, wild leek and chicory. The area's wildlife includes hares, hyenas, wild boars, jackals, wolves and bears, and among the birds you can find eagles, wagtails, choughs, falcons and partridges. There is no precise information on livestock in the Shah Alborz highlands, but given the villages of Hasanjoon and Heranj on the southern slope and Garmarud and Dinehrud on the northern slope, livestock herding is likely in these areas. The climb to Shah Alborz Peak is one of the longest routes among the peaks of the Central Alborz, covering about 17.5 kilometres to the summit. The route has no huts or shelters. In spring, because of the snow on the slopes, observing safety precautions is essential, and if you climb from Hasanjoon village, you first pass through lush green trees. A winter ascent of Shah Alborz requires previous experience and heavy winter mountaineering equipment. The common route up Shah Alborz starts on the southern face, from Hasanjoon village in Taleqan, and follows the river and a sheepfold. The northern routes can also be climbed, from Garmarud village in Alamut (the northwest ridge) and Dinehrud village in Alamut (the northeast ridge), and another route runs from Heranj village in Taleqan and Si Cheshmeh. On the route from Hasanjoon village there are several springs along the way. The Olang spring is the last drinkable spring, located at an altitude of 3,376 metres, about two hours from the summit. • Sanbaran Peak Sanbaran Peak, at 4,100 to 4,150 metres above sea level, is the highest peak of the Oshtorankuh range in Lorestan Province and of the third-highest range in the Zagros, after Dena and Zardkuh. The peak overlooks Gahar Lake and lies to the south of it. To its east is the village of Darreh Takht, and to its north is the village of Tayan. The word Sanbaran is made up of two parts: "Sanb", meaning a horn or something horn-like, and "Ran", meaning a part or region. It probably means "the horn of the region", a name given because of the peak's height. The vegetation of Oshtorankuh and Sanbaran Peak includes abundant wild pistachio, milk-vetch, rhubarb, steppe vegetation on the gentle slopes, wild flowers, barberry, garlic, carnation, rose, madder and borage. This region is home to a variety of animal species, including brown bears, foxes, hyenas, wild boars, grey wolves, wild goats and wild rams, and among the birds you can find eagles, partridges, owls, ducks and falcons, all of which are under environmental protection. The slopes of Oshtorankuh have long been home to some Lur tribes, and its pastures are used by the nomads of this area. Climbing Sanbaran is one of the country's notable ascents, and Himalayan expedition teams do their final domestic training on the peaks of Oshtorankuh. The route up Sanbaran has a very steep section known as the "Fish Back" (Gerdeh Mahi), which requires strong muscles. Climbing in autumn and winter is very hard and exhausting because of the cold, precipitation and strong winds, and demands great strength and proper mountaineering equipment. The most common route up Sanbaran starts on the northern side from Tayan village and reaches the summit after passing the Gol Gol Hut and the Chal Kabud Hut. The northern route passes through Tayan village, the Gol Gol Hut, the Chal Kabud Hut and Sanbaran Peak. Another route can be climbed from Bidestaneh village via the northern face of the peak, which involves about 2 kilometres less walking. Sanbaran Peak is accessible via the main Isfahan–Lorestan highway (Azna County), as well as via the town of Azna or the Tehran–Ahvaz railway (Azna County station). On the route up Sanbaran from Tayan village, the Gol Gol spring is next to the first hut. Between the Gol Gol Hut and the Chal Kabud Hut there is no other water source, so you must carry enough water. A spring has also been reported at an altitude of 3,500 metres, before the Varzab Pass, on the route through the Lalun Valley to Khalano Peak, which may also be related to Oshtorankuh. • Belqeis Peak Belqeis Peak, at 3,332 to 3,363 metres above sea level, is in Zanjan Province, eight kilometres northeast of Takht-e Soleyman. The peak lies at the end of the Balkash mountain chain, east of Lake Urmia, and is the highest peak of the Qarakh Bolagh (Chehel Cheshmeh) mountains. On the southern summit are the remains of the stone fortress of Takht-e Belqeis, which was used in Sassanid times as a watchtower for Takht-e Soleyman. Between the two summits there is a very beautiful lake, formed by melting snow, that is visible for most months of the year. The slopes of Belqeis are home to rare edible and medicinal wild plants, including rhubarb, nettle, thyme, lavender, kashmak, savory, sorrel, bulagh uti, liquorice and marjoram. The wild animals of this area include bears, jackals, wild boars, wolves, foxes and hares, and, more importantly, a dangerous venomous snake known as the «Belqeis viper», about twenty to fifty centimetres long, brown and dark green and the same colour as the rocks of the area, has been seen around this mountain. There is no precise information on livestock in the Belqeis highlands, but given the villages of Dandi and Qaravolkhaneh near the peak, livestock herding is likely in these areas. There are two main routes up Belqeis Peak. The southern route starts from Dandi and Qaravolkhaneh village; it is shorter than the Takht-e Soleyman route and is the most common route. The southwest route also starts from Dandi and reaches Takht-e Soleyman via the mine road. The northeast route is possible from West Azerbaijan Province, Takab County and the mine road. On the southern route up Belqeis Peak (from the Qaravolkhaneh ranger station), there are about 5 seasonal springs along the river, so water shortage is not a problem on the route. On the chosen route, there is also a permanent spring about an hour below the summit, a good place to rest. • Tashgar Peak Tashgar Peak, at 3,267 meters above sea level, is the highest peak in Hormozgan Province. It lies in the Homag Mountains and is a popular destination for professional climbers and nature lovers. The peak is located 60 kilometers north of Bandar Abbas County and in the southern part of Hajiabad County. Mount Homag is the highest part of Hormozgan Province, belonging to the southern Zagros range and forming part of the Zagros Fold Belt. According to local people, the name Tashgar comes from the burning of a juniper (Ars) tree, which was struck by lightning, caught fire and burned. At the middle elevations of Mount Homag and Tashgar Peak, the dominant plants of the area are wild almond, bitter almond (badamak), wild pistachio (baneh), Qeich, ebony and milkvetch (gavan), while juniper and wild olive dominate at higher elevations. A variety of fruits, including tangerines, grapes, walnuts, dates, figs and apricots, also grow in the orchards of the area. The dominant birds of the area are chukar partridges and see-see partridges, which are found in abundance in all seasons of the year. Various birds of prey, owls and other birds such as bee-eaters, kites, green bee-eaters, black francolins, warblers, wagtails and chaffinches also live in this area. No precise information is available on domestic animals in the Tashgar highlands, but given the villages of Totang and Zakin on the southern slope, livestock herding is likely in these areas. The best seasons for climbing Tashgar Peak are autumn and winter, and the trip is usually 2 days. Climbing Tashgar Peak has no particular technical difficulty and is suitable for experienced climbers as well as beginners. The route is challenging mainly because of its altitude and length, and it requires a good level of physical fitness. Tashgar Peak can be climbed by several different routes. The northern route (Homag) reaches the summit from the north of Mount Homag and, because of its length and difficulty, is better suited to professional climbers. The southern routes start from the villages of Totang and Zakin. Among these, the route from Zakin village is known as the standard route to the summit of Tashgar. To reach Zakin village, you can take the road Hajiabad – Siahu village – Dargaz village – Zakin village. On the route up Tashgar Peak from Zakin village, there is a drinkable spring at an elevation of 1,666 meters (Zakin Spring), the non-drinkable Parzardu Spring at 2,162 meters, and the non-drinkable Chah-e Malek Spring at 2,594 meters. At 2,500 meters, there is a place to spend the night, with huts built from stones and date palm leaves. • Barfanbar Peak Barfanbar Peak, at 3,200 to 3,260 meters above sea level, is considered the highest peak in Qom Province. It is located 60 kilometers south of the city of Qom, in the orchards south of Fordo village in Kahak District. The peak is named for the 600-meter-deep valley beside it, where a large amount of snow accumulates in winter, and this snow sometimes lasts until the summer of the following year. The vegetation of the mountainous areas of Qom is rich, and wild almond, medlar and wild pistachio shrubs are characteristic plants of these areas. As for wildlife, jackals, wolves, foxes, hares, chukar partridges, see-see partridges, steppe eagles, kestrels, falcons, vultures and various kinds of sparrows can be seen in these areas. At the foot of Barfanbar there are two cold springs that flow from inside the mountain and from the three snow-filled pits of Barfanbar, and lead to the dense orchards of Fordo. Because of its low altitude and the absence of scrambling on the route, climbing Barfanbar Peak is one of the easiest ascents among Iran's well-known peaks, and its difficulty is low to moderate. However, weather conditions and the season can make the climb harder. The most common route up Barfanbar Peak starts from Fordo village. Other routes include the Vasaf Valley route, the Karmjegan village route and the Jasb area route. To reach Fordo village, take the old Qom–Kashan road from the city of Qom, then go to the city of Kahak and from there to Fordo village. At the start of the route from Fordo village, there is the Abidar Spring beside a sheepfold, which has plenty of water. There are also two cold springs at the foot of Barfanbar. The Barfanbar mountain hut appears after the summit, and it is not possible to enter it if there is a crowd of climbers. On the route up from Vasaf Valley, it may also be possible to find water at an elevation of 3,100 meters (on the side route of the ascent). • Quli Zoleikha Peak Quli Zoleikha Peak, at 3,195 to 3,250 meters above sea level, is the highest peak in Kurdistan Province and one of the highest peaks of the Zagros range in northwestern Iran. The peak is located in the Chehel Cheshmeh area, on the border between Divandarreh and Saqqez counties. The Chehel Cheshmeh mountains are among the snowiest and coldest areas of Kurdistan, are covered with snow throughout the year, and are counted among the largest natural glaciers in Iran. Zoleikha Peak is known as the roof of Kurdistan Province and is on the list of peaks of the Simorgh Plan. The vegetation of Quli Zoleikha Peak and the Chehel Cheshmeh mountains includes solan or primrose, kashmeh, loosheh, pesal or kul, samoor, rhubarb, mani, soore baneh, gooni, kanival, ivy, barza, senobar, qeitaran, violet and salmeh. The wild animals of this area include bears, wolves, foxes, hares, rock partridges, many snakes and wild boars. Tracks of these animals, including bears, have been seen in the snow. No precise information is available on domestic animals in the Quli Zoleikha highlands, but given the village of Bast near the peak, livestock herding is likely in these areas. The area around Zolaykha Peak is known as one of the snowiest and coldest regions of Kurdistan. Climbing it in winter is very dangerous because of its steep routes and avalanche-prone valleys, and requires full attention to all safety considerations. The ascent of Zolaykha Peak is of moderate difficulty and suits climbers with intermediate experience, but it requires good physical fitness. Finding the correct route among the many rocky ridges requires experience and an experienced local guide. The best and most common route up Zolaykha Peak starts from Bast village in Divandarreh and follows the northeast face. A longer route leads from Bast village to Shah Neshin Peak and then follows the ridge to Qowli Zolaykha Peak. Another standard route goes from Bast village to the summit via the Chalcheme spring. Bast means "dead end", and the village is the last settlement in this mountainous area. There is a suitable mountaineering base at the end of the village where climbing teams can stay. There are many springs on all sides of the Qowli Zolaykha area. The most famous and best-flowing of them is called Kani Chaworesh and lies on its southeast flank. Water is easy to find along the climbing route. • Shah Jahan Peak Shah Jahan Peak, at 3032 to 3081 metres above sea level, is the highest point of the Aladagh range in North Khorasan Province and is known as the "Roof of North Khorasan". The peak lies at the meeting point of the three counties of Shirvan, Faruj and Esfarayen. The name "Shah Jahan" is linked to a historical and religious story, and some sources attribute it to the tomb of a prominent lady called "Shah Jahan". The vegetation of Shah Jahan includes juniper trees, mountain barberry, chicory, pennyroyal mint, ankh, aghbash, lavender (Stoechas), various types of wormwood, astragalus, siah-talu, several kinds of wild tulips, wide pastures and hundreds of other unidentified species. Precise information about the wildlife of Shah Jahan is not available, but since the peak lies in the mountainous Aladagh region, animals such as foxes, jackals, wolves, chukar partridges and see-see partridges are likely to live there. The pastures on the slopes of Shahvar, close to Shah Jahan, are the grazing area of the villages of Abarsaj and Nekarman, and livestock farming probably takes place on the slopes of Shah Jahan as well. Climbing Shah Jahan Peak usually takes about 4 to 6 hours and is rated as moderately difficult. The route from Tash village has a relatively gentler gradient, while the Jangal-e Abr route is longer and more challenging. At high altitudes, snowfall and wind are possible. In recent years there have been reports of climbers getting lost on Shah Jahan because of snow and blizzards, which shows the need for caution and preparation when climbing this peak. The most common route to Shah Jahan Peak starts from the south face and the village of Nodeh Bam in Esfarayen County and takes about 4 hours. Other routes include the Tash village route (the most commonly used), the Khargh village route (the safest and shortest), the Amiranlu village route (north) and the Khosroyeh village route (northeast). On the route up Shah Jahan Peak from Tash village there are natural springs, among them the Haft-Rang ("Seven Colours") spring, with clear, pleasant-tasting blue water. On the Nodeh Bam route there is also a cold, pleasant spring below the summit on the south side, whose water flows down to the villages below. • Naybandan Peak Nayband Peak, at 3005 metres above sea level, is the highest peak in South Khorasan Province. It lies in the Dihuk area of Tabas County and is known as the roof of South Khorasan. The peak is part of Iran's national Simorgh mountaineering programme and, thanks to its natural and environmental importance, is considered one of the most outstanding climbing destinations in Iran. Nayband village, on the edge of the Lut Desert, is the main base for climbing Nayband Peak. Because of its geographical position and distinctive climate, the area is known as one of the most important wildlife refuges in Iran. The name "Nayband" was given to it because of the natural gorges in the area and because it links two parts of the desert. The vegetation of the Nayband area includes plants such as wild almond (arzhan), ivory almond, saxaul (taghe), wild fig, astragalus and cumin. The area is particularly important for endangered species such as the Asiatic cheetah and is home to varied animals such as wild rams and ewes, caracals, red foxes, sand foxes, jackals, Indian crested porcupines, tashi and desert hares, as well as various snakes. Nayband village has an example of stepped architecture and has earned the title "Masuleh of the Desert". Life in the village has continued for years thanks to the water of its qanats. Nayband Peak is a relatively difficult but technical peak in the desert region of South Khorasan. Climbing it requires good physical fitness and experience of mountaineering in desert areas. Climbing it without a guide and without a permit from the Tabas County Mountaineering Board can be dangerous, especially because there are no shelters or water sources along the route. The rocky, crumbling terrain of the Nayband mountain and the large temperature difference between day and night are further challenges of climbing this peak. The only way up Nayband Peak is from the north face, and the starting point is a spot at the end of the dirt road in the Naybandan Wildlife Refuge. To climb the peak, you must go from Nayband village towards the abandoned village of Aliabad and then climb to the summit. On the north face, several routes run parallel to each other towards the summit, either along valley floors or over ridges. The Nayband area is dry and has no springs or rivers, so climbers must carry the water they need. In Nayband village, the Zardgah spring and the Dig-e Rostam hot spring are the main water sources for the village's palm groves and gardens. • Birmi Peak Birami Peak, at 1,950 to 1,970 metres above sea level, is the highest peak in Bushehr Province. It lies 3 kilometres east of the town of Khormoj, along the borders of the counties of Tangestan, Dashtestan and Dashti. The peak is located in southern Fars, between the counties of Lar and Lamerd, and is regarded as the highest point of Bushehr Province. Mount Birami is a continuation of the southern Zagros range. The vegetation of the Birami area consists mainly of mesquite (kahur), jujube (konar), wild almond and Persian turpentine (baneh). Medicinal plants in the area include thyme, bordi, mortalkh and asafoetida. Extensive date palm groves lie at the foot of the peak. Animal species in the area include jackals, foxes, wild boars, gazelles, wild goats, chukar partridges and see-see partridges. Leopards, ibex, goats and wild sheep (rams and ewes) have also been sighted here. The Biram area, which is in fact the same as Bikheh Ehshām, lies in southern Fars between the counties of Lar and Lamerd. Extensive date palm groves stretch across the slopes of this peak. Although Mount Birami is under 2,000 metres high, it is considered one of the most difficult mountains in Iran because of its great height above the surrounding base, and the route is very steep. To climb this peak you face at least seven "trials" (like the seven labours of the hero Rostam), and the slope eases only between them. The peak can be climbed in the cold months of the year and during seasonal rains, while in the hot seasons it is very important to carry enough water and fluids. Birami Peak is usually climbed from the north, from the Khayez area, because the southern slopes of the mountain are generally impassable and precipitous. The most common and easiest route to the summit is the Tang-e Ravan route on the northern face, which has the best and highest-quality footpath and clear cairns along the climbing route. Another route is possible from Khormoj and the southern side of the Onar Valley. There is only one spring, at the start of the route to Birami Peak from the village of Geshi in Ahram County. On the route from Khormoj and the Onar Valley, there is also the Nari spring at an altitude of 920 metres. • Shahan Kuh Peak Shahan Kuh Peak, at 4,040 metres above sea level, is the highest peak in Isfahan Province. It lies 20 kilometres southwest of Fereydunshahr and is part of the Zagros range. The peak stands on a ridge of the same name, more than 43 kilometres long, whose general direction follows the main axis of the Zagros, northwest to southeast. The peak takes its name from the village of Shahan on its southern side. Fereydunshahr is known as the "Roof of Iran". The vegetation of Shahan Kuh includes fritillary (inverted tulip), various kinds of milkvetch (gon), koma, jashir, sorrel, zool, chavil, celery, rhubarb, mushrooms, wild leek and wild dill. Dozens of kinds of flowers and plants grow at its different altitudes. Various wild birds such as pheasants, eagles, chukar partridges and see-see partridges, as well as ibex, wild goats, bears, wolves, jackals and hares, live in this region. Pastoral nomads live around Shahan Kuh Peak, and their stone sheepfolds can be seen along the climbing route. Climbing Shahan Kuh Peak is rated as difficult because of its great height and steep slopes. Some sections of the route require scrambling with your hands on the rock. Sudden, cold, dry winds on the ridge and summit are very noticeable. The common route to Shahan Kuh Peak runs from the east side through the village of Sardab-e Bala, the Arab Gorge (Tang-e Arab) and the southern gully, and is known as the summer route. A western route from the village of Shahan via the western gully, and a northeastern route from Sardab-e Bala via the northeastern valley, also lead to the peak. To reach the village of Sardab-e Bala, travel from Isfahan to Fereydunshahr, then on to the village of Sibak, and finally to Sardab. There is only one spring at the start of the route to Shahan Kuh Peak, located in the Arab Gorge. There is no other spring along the route. There is no shelter in the area or on the climbing route, but in several places in the upper parts of the eastern and western ridges there are suitable flat areas for pitching tents. • Samamus Peak Samamus Peak, at 3,050 to 3,726 metres above sea level, is the highest peak overlooking the Caspian Sea and the highest peak in Gilan Province, located in Rudsar County. It lies south of Kelachay and Ramsar, on the border between the northern forests and the Ashkur Valley. The name Samamus means "under the sky", and this heavenly mountain is like an island surrounded by dense forests. On the slopes of Samamus Peak there is forest cover, and at higher altitudes you can see meadows, mountain flowers and a special kind of creeping juniper. Animals of the area include bears, foxes, hares, eagles and falcons. There are also reports of leopards and wild boars in the region. The village of Javaherdasht lies near Samamus Peak and offers the possibility of an overnight stay. Livestock farming is common in this village and the surrounding areas. Climbing Samamus Peak may be accompanied by difficulties such as fog in the area, and using a local guide or GPS is essential. To complete the full climbing programme for this peak, allow more than one day; a one-day ascent requires a high level of physical fitness. On the routes leading to Samamus Peak, especially in foggy weather, snakes may be present, which should be kept in mind. The common route to Samamus Peak passes through Javahereh, the east ridge and Siyahkand. Other routes include the northern route from Ramsar via Javahereh, Siyah Kand and the Javaherdasht Pass; the eastern route from Jannat Rudbar, Baghdasht and Rudbar Kesh; the southeastern route from Ramsar via Javahereh, Baghdasht and Lepasar; the northeastern route from Ramsar via Javahereh, Siyah Kand, Baghdasht and Rudbarkesh; and the western route from Siyahkalrud via Javaherdasht and the Javaherdasht Pass. On the route to Samamus Peak from Javahereh, there are springs along the way. The last spring on the route has pleasant, fresh water, which is piped down to that point from higher up using a polyethylene pipe. On the Jannat Rudbar route there is also a waterfall whose source is on Mount Samamus. • Shahvar Peak Mount Shahvar, at 3,905 to 3,964 meters above sea level, is the highest peak of the eastern Alborz and the roof of Semnan Province. It forms the natural border between Semnan and Golestan provinces. The mountain lies near the city of Shahrud, about 25 kilometers northwest of the city. The name Shahvar literally means "king-like" or "kingly", and it was given because this is the highest peak in the region. The peak is shaped like a flat, reclining cone and connects to the other heights of the eastern Alborz only through its northeastern ridge. The vegetation of Shahvar includes barberry, various types of milkvetch (Astragalus), broom grass, wild cumin, wild rose, juniper and wheat grass. The wildlife of the area includes brown bear, ibex and wild goat, wolf, porcupine, chukar partridge and wild boar. Shahvar Peak stands north of Shahrud County and east of Tash village, and its slopes are the pastures and grazing grounds of the villages of Abarsaj and Nekarman. The ascent of Shahvar is one of the longer routes among the peaks of the Alborz range, covering roughly 9.89 to 19.31 kilometers. However, the route involves no serious technical climbing or scrambling, and in terms of difficulty it can be compared to the southern route of Damavand or Alam-Kuh (from the Hesarchal side). Shahvar is usually covered with snow throughout the year. The common route to Shahvar Peak goes up the western face and passes through Tash village, the bauxite mine, Khersan Valley and the Pir Mishi spring. Other routes include the southwest route from Nekarman village (the southwest ridge), the south route from Zereshk village (the south ridge) and the west route from Tash village (Mishi spring and Pir Mishi pass). To reach Tash village, drive from Shahrud toward Azadshahr and, at the Mojen junction, turn off toward the Mojen or Toskestan road and Gorgan. On the route up the western face of Shahvar there is the Pir Mishi spring. The Khersi spring is also located along this route. On the southern route (Hasanjun village in Taleqan) there are also several springs, including the Olang spring, the last of which is at an altitude of 3,376 meters. There is no mountain hut in the area or along the route, but the village's climbers' house is a suitable place to spend the night. • Gavkoshan Peak Gavkoshan Peak, at 3,800 to 3,841 meters above sea level, is the highest peak of Golestan Province in northern Iran and part of the eastern Alborz range. It lies in the Jahan Nama Protected Area and forms a 15-kilometer ridge that is considered the natural border between Golestan and Semnan provinces. The peak is also on the list of Simorgh Plan peaks. Gavkoshan is located 37 kilometers south of Gorgan and 6 kilometers southeast of Shahkuh-e Pain village, and it is the source of the Sartangeh, Chahardah and Abe Torudban rivers. The vegetation of Gavkoshan includes shing, wormwood, bindweed, wild rue (esfand), soapwort, cress, wild almond, iris, various types of milkvetch, various types of sainfoin, sage, bride's flower, tulip, poppy, fescue, parand, shir-khesht, kolah-e Mir Hasan, tamarisk, kondor-e jashir, juniper and wild rose, and kakuti. The wildlife of the area includes pheasant, falcon, vulture, owl, crow, sparrow, pigeon, partridge, see-see partridge, saker falcon, ibex, wild goat, wild ram, ewe, wild boar, hare, field mice, hedgehog, wildcat, leopard and bear. Most people in Shahkuh-e Sofla village work in livestock farming and agriculture, and in summer the village hosts many visitors from across the region. Climbing Gavkoshan falls into the category of moderate to hard peaks and requires good physical fitness, mountaineering experience and familiarity with mountain routes. The climbing routes include steep sections, scree slopes and rocky cliffs, which make the ascent challenging. In winter, because the area is avalanche-prone, the climb must be done with great caution and the proper equipment. Gavkoshan has two common climbing routes. The first starts from Shahkuh-e Sofla village, located 65 kilometers southeast of Gorgan; after about 4 kilometers of dirt road it leads to the Sangbon spring and then to the Zin-e Asbi pass, and from there the route continues to the summit. The second route starts from the town of Dibaj, 55 kilometers north of Damghan, and is known as the southern route up Gavkoshan. At the end of the dirt road on the route to Gavkoshan Peak there is the Sangbon spring. On the way back, a stream can also be seen. There is no mountain hut or shelter along the route, and in warm seasons it is possible to pitch a tent at the end of the dirt road. • Kuhno Peak Kuhno Peak (Kino), at 3,701 to 3,761 meters above sea level, lies in the Zagros highlands between Khuzestan and Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari provinces. It is considered the roof of Khuzestan Province and the highest point of the province, and it is on the list of Simorgh peaks. In the local language, the name Kino comes from the way the mountain holds snow, meaning fresh snow piling up on top of old snow. Lake Tamy also lies at the foot of this mountain. The vegetation of Kino includes various kinds of oak, maple (arzhan), kikam, shen-e balalim, olf, golkhuneg, wild pistachio (baneh), saten, dareh, wild willow, walnut, fig, jujube and hawthorn, as well as different types of milkvetch, chavil, wild barley, mint, pennyroyal, nettle, parsiavushan (maidenhair fern), iris and valak, and also fritillaries (nodding tulips). The wild animals of the area include brown bear, leopard, wolf, boar, wild goat, hyena, hare, fox, eagle, falcon, partridge, wild duck and mallard, as well as mountain nightingale and goldfinch. Kino is the summer pasture for all the livestock-herding nomads of the neighboring provinces. Because of its great height and its glaciers, climbing Kino is considered one of the heavy and challenging ascents, and its difficulty rating is hard. The first two thirds of the route are steep, while the final section has a gentler slope. Above 3,000 meters there is no trail, and the cairns along the route serve as guides. Climbing Kino in high-water seasons can be dangerous because it requires crossing a river. Unfortunately, the door of the Sobh mountain hut is normally locked. There are several routes to the summit of Kino. The most common is the eastern route, which can be reached from the Taraz Pass or the village of Lebad. The southern route runs through the Ab-e Sardeh Gorge, the northwest route starts from the village of Ahmad Fadaleh along a nomad trail, and a northern route from Lirook is also possible. To reach the starting point of the eastern route, you need to travel to Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari Province, the Bazoft area, the town of Chaman Goli, and then take the Masjed Soleyman road. After about 130 kilometres, turn onto the side road to the village of Lebad. Lake Tami, which is filled by snowmelt, lies at the foot of Mount Kino. The climbing route to this peak has no springs or other water sources, so it is best to carry enough water with you. Kino Peak has no hut or shelter. However, water can be found at an altitude of 3,100 metres (on a side branch of the climbing route). • Kan Seyfi Peak Kan Seyfi Peak, at 2,910 to 3,050 metres above sea level, is the highest peak of the Kabirkuh range and the roof of Ilam Province. The Kabirkuh range is part of the great Zagros Mountains and is the westernmost range in Iran, starting near the city of Ilam and continuing to Khuzestan Province. The range is about 225 kilometres long, and Kan Seyfi Peak lies near the village of Chenar Bashi. On the northern slope of the mountain there is a spring called Seyfi, and the peak takes its name, Kan Seyfi, from this spring. The vegetation of Ilam Province is semi-dense and consists mostly of oak, wild cherry (balalook), almond (arzhan), hawthorn and Keykam (Cercis/Acer-type local shrub) species. In the Kabirkuh area, oak trees are also the dominant species. The wildlife of this region includes brown bear, leopard, wildcat, caracal, wolf, jackal, red fox, hyena, marten, weasel, wild sheep and goat, wild boar, hare, Persian squirrel, European hedgehog, long-eared hedgehog, grey hamster and house mouse. Mount Kino, which is near Kan Seyfi, is the summer pasture for all the livestock-herding nomads of the neighbouring provinces. The climbing route to Kan Seyfi Peak has no springs or other water sources, and no hut or shelter. On the route there are two moderate scrambling sections, and the climb is considered demanding for a one-day outing. The best time to climb this peak is from Azar (late November) until mid-spring. There are two usual routes to Kan Seyfi Peak: the northern route from the village of Chenar Bashi and the southern route via the village of Cheshmeh Pahn. To climb by the southern route, first go to the city of Ilam, then head toward the town of Malekshahi, and then on to the village of Cheshmeh Pahn. The northern route passes the nomad settlement toward the north of the valley, then continues east among oak and ash trees, and finally reaches the summit via the ridge connecting to the village of Kani Pan. The route to this peak has no springs or other water sources. • Orin Peak Orin Peak, at 3,651 to 3,702 metres above sea level, is the highest peak in West Azerbaijan Province and the symbol of the city of Khoy. It lies 35 kilometres west of Khoy, between the districts of Safaiyeh and Ghotur, and 15 kilometres from the Iran-Turkey border. Mount Orin consists of two peaks: Little Orin (3,417 metres) and Big Orin (3,702 metres). Locally it is also known as Zaki Dagh and Mollamohammad Dagh, and in the local language Orin means "cloudy", because more than ninety percent of rain clouds, especially in spring, appear from behind this mountain. The vegetation of Orin Peak includes natural meadows, thorns, cress and colourful wildflowers. At lower altitudes, pastures and meadows spread out, and along the climbing route you will see colourful fields of anemones and poppies, as well as chamomile bushes and rare white yarrow. Detailed information on the wild animals of Orin Peak is not available, but since the peak lies in the mountainous region of West Azerbaijan, species such as bear, fox, wolf, chukar partridge and see-see partridge may be present in the area. Detailed information on domestic animals in the area is also unavailable, but given the villages of Hesar and Badalan near the peak, livestock farming is likely in these areas. On the route up Orin Peak there is no difficult rock or scrambling, and the climb is easy. However, along the way there is a steep, rocky bend called Gachi Gheyran ("goat killer"), which is the hardest section of the route to pass. The best time to climb Orin Peak and see its pristine and beautiful nature is from the second half of Khordad (early June) to Shahrivar (September). There are three main routes to Orin Peak: the eastern route, which is the most common, starts from the village of Hesar and reaches the summit by crossing the Hesar plain and the Gollar reservoir. The southern route from the village of Gowgerd and the southern ridge, and the western route from the village of Sharifabad and the western ridge, also lead to this peak. To reach the village of Hesar, you can travel from Khoy to Pesk and then Badalan, and from there reach Hesar by Nissan pickup. Up to an altitude of about 2,800 metres, there are many springs and streams along the route to Orin Peak. The Khaneh Kuh Orin shelter is in the village of Hesar; it holds about 70 to 80 people and has electricity. • Kamal Peak (Ghuchgoli) Kamal Peak, at 3,707 to 3,767 metres above sea level, is the highest peak in East Azerbaijan Province and part of the Sahand mountain range. It lies within Bostanabad County, north of the village of Samar Khazan. Among climbers it is known as Kamal Daghi. The Sahand region is considered very rich in flora and fauna. The northern slopes of Kamal Peak descend gently, through the Yanogh Dagh (Burnt Mountain) hills, to the Tabriz plain. Detailed information on the wild animals of Kamal Peak is not available, but since the peak lies in the Sahand range, species such as wild sheep and wild goat may be present in the area. No information is available on domestic animals either, but given the surrounding villages, livestock farming is likely in these areas. Climbing Kamal Peak is neither fully technical nor non-technical, and its difficulty is moderate. The trek to the summit usually takes about two and a half hours. The usual route to Kamal Peak starts from the Sahand ski resort, which is located 5 kilometres past the Tabriz–Tehran road police checkpoint (the old road). There is also a winter route (along the ridge) that reaches the summit via the northeast ridge. The area has no spring or mountain hut, but it is possible to set up camp beside Ghouchgoli Lake (north of the summit). The Ghouchgoli spring has cold, pleasant-tasting water. • Shirbad Peak Shirbad Peak, at an elevation of 3,303 to 3,327 metres above sea level, is the highest peak of the Binalud mountain range and the roof of Razavi Khorasan Province. It lies north of Bujan village (northeast of the city of Neyshabur) and south of Zeshk village. Detailed information on the vegetation of Shirbad Peak is not available, but rhubarb is among the best-known plants of the area. The wildlife of the Shirbad area includes wild rams, foxes, leopards, wild ewes, jackals and wolves. The pastures on the slopes of Binalud are used for livestock grazing. Shirbad Peak usually has strong winds throughout the year, which is how it got its name. The climb to the summit usually takes about 4 to 6 hours and its difficulty is rated as moderate. There are four main routes to the summit of Shirbad: the Janpanah (hut) route (east), which is the most common route, starts from Zeshk village and has a mountain hut at an elevation of 3,100 metres; the Nahal Valley route (east), which reaches the summit without passing the hut and has a spring of the same name; the Dowlatabad Valley route, which is the shortest route and is accessible via Golbahar and Dowlatabad village; and the Bujan route (west), which starts from Bujan village and is a lush, green route. There is no spring on the hut route, but the Nahal spring is located on the Nahal Valley route. No information is available on access to water on the Dowlatabad and Bujan routes. The Shahid Razavi hut is located at an elevation of 3,100 metres on the eastern route. • Taftan Peak Taftan Peak, at an elevation of 3,911 to 3,941 metres above sea level, is the highest peak of Sistan and Baluchestan Province and a semi-active volcano. It is located 50 kilometres northeast of the city of Khash. In the Balochi language, the name Taftan means hot and scorching, a reference to the sulphur fumes that rise from its crater. Taftan has four summits, named Chehel Tan (the highest), Madarkuh, Sobh Kuh and Narkuh, and three volcanic craters. The vegetation on the slopes of Taftan includes mountain shrubs, wild almond (arzhan), mountain almond, tamarisk and black wood, as well as plants such as thyme, chicory, rhubarb and mint. Some sources also mention wild olive and terebinth (baneh). There is no vegetation in the areas near the gold mine. The wildlife of this area includes wolves and jackals. There are also reports of Asian black bears being sighted in the southeastern regions of Iran, including Mount Taftan. Detailed information about domestic animals on the heights of Taftan is not available, but given the villages near the peak, livestock farming is likely in these areas. Climbing Taftan Peak usually takes about 10 hours and its difficulty is rated as moderate. Because of the sulphur gases at the volcano's crater, breathing at the summit can be difficult. There are four main routes to the summit of Taftan: the shelter route (western face), which is the most common route and has the Sobh shelter at an elevation of 3,250 metres; the Torshab village route (eastern face); the Tamin village route (northern face); and the Sangan fork and Khanjak village route (northeastern face). On the shelter route there are sulphur-laden mineral springs, which are not usable. For the other routes, no detailed information is available on access to water. The Sobh shelter is located at an elevation of 3,250 metres on the western route. • Bol Peak Bol Peak, at an elevation of 3,943 to 3,953 metres above sea level, is the highest peak of Fars Province and of the Sefid Kuh range in the southern Zagros region. It is located south of Eghlid County. In the Pahlavi language, the name Bol means high. The vegetation of Fars Province includes medicinal and industrial plants such as liquorice, borage, tragacanth, asafoetida and astragalus (goon). Detailed information on the wild animals of Bol Peak is not available, but since the peak lies in the mountainous Zagros region, animal species such as wild rams and ewes are likely to be found there. Likewise, no detailed information is available on the domestic animals of this area, but given the villages near the peak, livestock farming is likely in these areas. Climbing Bol Peak is usually done in one day and its difficulty is rated as moderate. Two springs flow along the climbing route. There are various routes to the summit of Bol: the Lay-e Shekaft Valley route (west), which is suitable for climbing in any season and starts from the Sardab area; the Zemestaneh Valley route (northwest), which is more difficult; the Rivas Valley route (north); the Cheshmeh Langi route (northeast), which starts from the Asari Pass and Cheshmeh Langi and leads to the summit; the Bagh-e Zarghami route (east), which is relatively long; the Dareh Sabz route (south), which starts from the Nokhodzar plain and ends at the shelter; and the Ghebleh Valley route (southwest), which is better suited to winter climbing. On the route to the summit of Bol there are two flowing springs, one of which is at an elevation of about 3,100 metres and is known as Sefid Sang. There is also a mountain hut on the western face of the peak at an elevation of about 3,550 metres. • Parav Peak Mount Parau, at 3,390 to 3,405 metres above sea level, is the highest peak in Kermanshah Province and part of the Zagros Mountains. It lies northeast of the city of Kermanshah. In Kurdish, the name Parau means "full of water", a reference to the many springs in this mountain range. The vegetation around Parau includes oak, wild sour cherry, hawthorn, wild pear and wild pistachio (baneh). The area's wildlife includes bears, foxes, jackals, wolves, leopards, hares and wild goats. No precise information is available about domestic animals on the slopes of Parau, but since there are villages near the peak, livestock herding is likely in these areas. The climb to Parau is usually done in a single day and is rated moderate in difficulty. There is a spring called Dozari along the route. The common route to the summit starts on the southern side from the village of Chalabeh and reaches the summit after passing through the Charubar Gorge. On the route to Parau, the Dozari spring is at an altitude of about 2,600 metres. The Parau mountain hut is at 3,150 metres. • Domir Peak Domir Peak, at 3,400 to 3,505 metres above sea level, is the highest peak in Markazi Province and one of the peaks of the Simorgh Project of Iran's mountains. It is located in Delijan County. In the local language, the name Domir means "tall-featured and majestic". The vegetation of Domir includes thyme, various kinds of galbanum (barijeh), asafoetida, wormwood, various kinds of milkvetch (gavan), tareh, nettle, wild barberry, zarrin-giyah, pennyroyal and yarrow. The animals of the area include wild boar, foxes, jackals, wolves, hares, various snakes and chameleons. No precise information is available about domestic animals on the slopes of Domir, but since there are villages in the surrounding area, livestock herding is likely in these areas. The climb to Domir is usually done in a single day and is rated moderate in difficulty. The area has only one spring, called Oghan, in the Bidestan Valley, and it is dry. There are four main routes to Domir: the eastern route via the village of Naraq; the western route via the village of Mazvash and Madan Valley, which is the shortest; the northern route via the village of Neshalj, which is the longest; and the southern route via the village of Ghalhar. The area has only one spring, called Oghan, in the Bidestan Valley, and it is dry. In the village of Mazvash there is a mountaineering house with suitable facilities for resting and overnight stays. • Kubari Peak (Yakhchal) Kubari Peak, at 3,586 metres above sea level, is the highest peak in Hamadan Province and in the Alvand mountain range. It lies south of the Moradbeig Valley and north of the town of Sarkan. In the local language, the name Kubari means "home of many partridges". The vegetation of Kubari includes yellow milkvetch, nettle, broom-like shrubs and rangeland plants. The animals of the area include wild goats (kal), pigs, partridges (zarech), eagles, falcons, hares, foxes, wolves and jackals. No precise information is available about domestic animals on the slopes of Kubari, but since there are villages near the peak, livestock herding is likely in these areas. The climb to Kubari is usually done in a single day and is rated moderate in difficulty. There are several springs along the way, so water is easy to find. There are three main routes to Kubari: the Moradbeig Valley route, which is the most popular and starts from Moradbeig Valley Square in Hamadan; the Ganjnameh route, which passes through the Mishan Plain and is longer; and the Tuyserkan route, which starts from the gardens of Sarkan. Along the route there are many springs, including the Sang-e Sefid spring and the Sardeh spring. The Saheb al-Zaman Shelter (Yakhchal Shelter) is at an altitude of 3,200 metres on the northern route. • Shirkuh Peak Shirkuh Peak, at 4,075 metres above sea level, is the highest peak in Yazd Province and lies in central Iran. It is located southwest of Taft County, 50 kilometres from Yazd. The name Shirkuh ("Lion Mountain") comes from its resemblance, seen from a distance, to a sleeping lion. The vegetation of Shirkuh includes barberry shrubs, sarishk (sarish), allium, wild cucumber (khiarak), jashir and thyme. The animals of the Shirkuh area include wild rams and ewes, gazelles, wild goats (kal), goats and wolves. No precise information is available about domestic animals on the slopes of Shirkuh, but since there are villages in the surrounding area, livestock herding is likely in these areas. The climb to Shirkuh is usually done in a single day and is rated moderate in difficulty. There are four springs along the route. There are various routes to Shirkuh, including: Sousan Valley, Shams Valley, Bardestan-e Sanich, Labidshir, Bidkabkan, Labidsorkh, Layakhchal, Lagerdu, and Abriz, which has two side routes called Najib Valley and Lasargun. The most common route starts from the village of Deh Bala. There are four springs along the route. A shelter stands after Najib Valley at an altitude of 3,522 metres, and the summit shelter is at 4,075 metres.

Mountaineering is one of the most exciting nature activities, but if you do it without the right knowledge, it can very easily turn into a dangerous experience. The truth is that most mountain accidents are not caused by freak events but by common mountaineering mistakes, errors that even experienced climbers sometimes make. If you want a safe and professional climb, you need to recognize these mistakes and know how to avoid them. Table of contents: Beginners' mistakes in mountaineering Common equipment mistakes Dangerous mistakes on the route How to avoid mistakes Conclusion Frequently asked questions Beginners' mistakes in mountaineering Many of the dangers of mountaineering start right here: when people head into the mountains without enough experience and assume the route will be easy. One of the most important mistakes is not planning before the climb. Many people set off without checking the route, the departure time, the weather conditions and the difficulty level, even though a simple route can become truly challenging and dangerous in certain conditions. Also, some people think mountaineering is just about getting to the destination, and they make no clear plan for the return, when the way back is just as important. Underestimating your physical strength is another common mistake. Mountaineering requires physical fitness, and if your body is not ready, you will quickly suffer from fatigue, loss of concentration or even injury. The important point is that you must also keep in mind the strength needed to get back along the route you have covered, because many problems happen on the return. In addition, some people go on a trip without telling anyone their route and return time. Before you set off, make sure someone knows your plan so that, if a problem occurs, follow-up is easier. Other common mistakes include the following: Starting late and being caught by darkness (that is, choosing a departure time that may leave you on the route after dark) Having no fixed time to end the trip Insisting on continuing in dangerous conditions Climbing solo without enough experience (moving without a companion or guide) Common equipment mistakes Equipment plays a very important role in mountaineering, and choosing the wrong gear can make even a simple trip difficult for you. One of the most common mistakes is wearing unsuitable clothing. Cotton clothes hold moisture and cause your body temperature to drop in cold weather. For this reason, a layered clothing system is recommended so that you can better control your body's condition. Choosing unsuitable shoes is another major mistake. Ordinary city shoes or sneakers are not designed for mountain routes and may cause slipping, blisters or sprained ankles. On the other hand, some people do not carry essential equipment, while others make their backpacks too heavy. The best approach is to find a balance: carry the essentials and avoid carrying unnecessary items. Other important equipment mistakes: Not having a headlamp (for emergencies) Not having an extra warm layer Not having a map or GPS Not carrying enough water and food Relying too heavily on your mobile phone Dangerous mistakes on the route Many of the dangers of mountaineering occur along the route, where wrong decisions can have serious consequences. One of the most dangerous mistakes is leaving the main route. Many people leave the marked path to shorten the way, but this can get you lost or take you into dangerous areas. Ignoring weather conditions is also a major mistake. Sudden weather changes are very common in the mountains, and disregarding them can put you in a difficult situation. Poor time management is another important error. If you do not keep to a precise schedule, you may end up in darkness, cold or unsuitable conditions. Other important mistakes on the route: Trusting your phone and mobile signal too much Ignoring warning signs and signboards Continuing in fog, rain or poor visibility Crossing slippery or dangerous sections without preparation Ignoring fatigue and your body's signals How can we avoid these mistakes? To have a safe climb, you need to act knowledgeably and professionally. The first step is careful planning. Before you set off, check the route, timing, weather conditions and your own ability, and make sure you share the details of your plan with a trusted person. The second point is choosing suitable equipment. Layered clothing, proper shoes, enough water, energy-giving snacks and safety equipment should always be with you. Another important point is knowing your personal limits. If you are tired or conditions are not right, continuing is not the right decision. Turning back in time is a sign of professionalism in mountaineering. Finally, for a risk-free climb, always set a clear turnaround time, pay attention to the weather, stay on marked routes and listen to your body's signals. Conclusion Mountaineering is an enjoyable activity, but it can become dangerous if safety principles are ignored. Most of these dangers also come down to mistakes that can be prevented. With proper planning, suitable equipment and informed decision-making on the route, you can avoid these mistakes to a great extent. Ultimately, the most important principle in mountaineering is to return safe and sound. Frequently asked questions 1. What is the most important mistake in mountaineering? Not planning and underestimating the conditions of the route. 2. Is mountaineering without equipment possible? Perhaps on very easy routes, but in general it is very dangerous. 3. Why shouldn't you rely on your mobile phone? Because in many mountain areas there is no signal, and the battery drains quickly. 4. When should you give up continuing on the route? When the weather is bad, your body is exhausted or time has gotten out of control.

If you have ever suddenly felt weak, dizzy or drained of energy in the middle of a climb, the problem was most likely your nutrition. The mountains are not a place where your body can get by on minimal energy; every step, every slope and every metre of altitude requires the right fuel. Eating well not only improves your performance, but also directly affects your safety, your decision-making and even how much you enjoy the climb. In this guide you will learn exactly what to eat, when to eat it and which mistakes to avoid. Table of contents: The best foods for mountaineering Eating before a climb Eating during the trip 10 good foods for mountaineering Common nutrition mistakes Conclusion Frequently asked questions The best foods for mountaineering Choosing the right food for mountaineering means having enough energy without making your backpack too heavy. The best foods are usually light, energy-dense, long-lasting and easy to carry. Good mountaineering foods are usually a combination of carbohydrates, healthy fats and a small amount of protein. Carbohydrates provide quick fuel for the body, fats give longer-lasting energy, and protein helps preserve muscle; as a result, your body gets instant energy and also tires more slowly. The best options: Nuts (almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts) Dried fruit (raisins, dates, figs) Dark chocolate Whole-grain bread Peanut butter Energy bars Plain, high-calorie biscuits These foods are light, quick to eat, and provide the energy you need to keep going. Eating before a climb What you eat before you set off has a direct effect on how you perform along the route. Even so, many people don't take this seriously, and that causes an energy slump right at the start of the trail. It is best to have a full, balanced meal 2 to 3 hours before the climb. This meal should include complex carbohydrates, a small amount of protein and a little fat; in other words, food that gives you energy without weighing you down. Good examples: Bread with honey or jam Rice or potatoes Eggs Oats Fresh fruit Drinking water before you start climbing is also very important. Your body should be well hydrated from the very beginning. Eating during the trip While mountaineering, your body is constantly burning energy; so you should eat regularly and gradually, rather than waiting until you are completely hungry. It is best to eat a small amount of food every 45 minutes to 1 hour. This helps keep your energy level steady and prevents sudden crashes. Important tips: Drink water continuously, in small sips Choose light, easily digestible foods Eat during short breaks, not when you are already completely exhausted Good snacks to eat while climbing: Dates and raisins Chocolate Nuts Light sandwiches Fruit 10 good foods for mountaineering Whether your trip lasts one day or several, choosing the right food helps you keep your energy up and feel weak less often. Here are some practical options: 1. Granola You can take granola or ready-made energy bars. It is best to choose a type sweetened with dried fruit, or make your own with oats and nuts to make it healthier. 2. Cooked quinoa Quinoa is high in fiber and helps with digestion; as a result, you will feel lighter. 3. Fresh fruit and vegetables They are a good choice for short trips and provide vitamins and water for your body. 4. Dried fruit It keeps for a long time and is a good source of energy, fiber and minerals. 5. Hummus Hummus is a healthy, energizing snack for mountaineering because it is high in calories, carbohydrates, fiber and protein. You can eat it with bread or crackers. 6. Nuts and whole grains Macadamias, walnuts, Brazil nuts and almonds are high in calories and also contain protein, fiber, healthy fats, and important vitamins and minerals. Whole grains such as barley, quinoa and buckwheat are rich in fiber, complex carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals. Whole grains can be eaten at any time of day. 7. Nut butters Nut butters such as peanut butter and almond butter are tasty and nutritious foods, as long as you choose natural products without added sugar. Nut butter is rich in calories, healthy fats and protein, all of which help you maintain your energy on the climb. You can also add them to all kinds of meals and snacks. 8. Tuna and vegetable salad This dish is packed with protein and vegetables and is very easy to prepare and pack. Mix a can of tuna with some mayonnaise, finely chopped celery, sliced onion and some snow peas. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and add a little lemon juice if you like. 9. Beans and legumes Beans are a rich source of protein, fiber and vitamins, and are well suited to long trips. Chickpeas, black beans and black-eyed peas can be added to any meal and eaten hot or cold. Legumes packed in foil pouches keep for a long time, which makes them an excellent choice for long journeys. 10. Dark chocolate Dark chocolate containing about 70 percent cocoa is a wonderful antioxidant and an energizing food for hiking. Mix a few pieces of dark chocolate with nuts, seeds and dried fruit. Dark chocolate has a higher melting point than milk chocolate, because it contains a higher percentage of cocoa than milk fat. Common Nutrition Mistakes in Mountaineering Many problems in mountaineering are caused by simple nutrition mistakes, which are easy to prevent. The most important ones are: Skipping breakfast before the climb Drinking too little water Eating heavy, hard-to-digest foods Leaving long gaps between meals Eating too many simple sugars (which cause a sudden drop in energy) Having no clear meal plan Trying new foods during the trip (which risks digestive problems) Another important point is paying attention to your body's needs at altitude. At high elevation, your body burns more energy, and this should be factored into your meal plan. Conclusion Nutrition in mountaineering is not something you can ignore. A large part of your energy, concentration and even your safety along the route depends on it. By choosing the right foods, timing your meals well and avoiding common mistakes, you can perform better and enjoy your climb more. In the end, your body in the mountains responds to you exactly in proportion to how well you take care of it. Frequently Asked Questions 1. Should we eat more carbohydrates or protein when climbing? Carbohydrates are the main source of energy, but it is best to eat them together with a small amount of protein and fat. 2. Are energy drinks suitable? In small amounts they may be useful, but they are not a substitute for water and proper nutrition. 3. How much water do you need when climbing? It depends on the conditions of the route, but it is best to drink water regularly and before you feel thirsty. 4. What is the best light snack for the trail? Nuts, dates, dark chocolate and dried fruit are among the best options. 5. Why are high-fat foods a good choice? Fats provide longer-lasting energy than carbohydrates and are helpful on long trips.

If you have climbed even once, you probably know that forgetting one simple item can throw off your whole plan. A complete mountaineering gear checklist not only keeps you organized, but also lets you tackle the route with greater peace of mind. Whether you are a beginner or an expert, choosing the right equipment makes the difference between an enjoyable climb and a hard, risky experience. In this article, we review all the gear you need for mountaineering in 2026. Table of contents: Essential mountaineering gear for beginners Professional mountaineering equipment Gear you need for camping in the mountains Common mistakes when choosing mountaineering gear Conclusion Frequently asked questions Essential mountaineering gear for beginners If you are new to the world of mountaineering, you don't need to go straight for professional, expensive equipment. But there are a few basic items whose absence can cause problems. The most important essentials include the following: Standard, non-slip hiking boots Suitable boots should be comfortable, durable and preferably waterproof, so that you keep your balance on rocky and slippery trails. Lightweight, ergonomic backpack Your backpack should distribute weight well and should not be oversized for day trips. Water bottle or hydration bladder Always carry enough water; dehydration is one of the common dangers in mountaineering. Suitable clothing (layering system) Layered clothing helps you regulate your body temperature in different conditions. Headlamp or flashlight It is absolutely essential for emergencies or when the trail gets dark. Map or GPS Having a defined route minimizes the chance of getting lost. First aid kit A simple kit can be vital in an emergency. The important point is that in mountaineering, safety and comfort always take higher priority than keeping your gear light. Professional mountaineering equipment When you head onto harder routes or higher altitudes, professional equipment becomes more important. This gear is usually used on more serious climbs: Crampons: for moving on snow and ice Ice axe: for keeping your balance on icy slopes Gore-Tex clothing: waterproof and windproof to keep your body warm Professional sub-zero sleeping bag: suitable for overnight stays in the cold Mountaineering gas stove: for heating food at altitude Sunglasses with strong UV protection: protect your eyes from intense light Rope and safety equipment: for technical and specialized routes Gear you need for camping in the mountains Many climbers spend the night in the mountains at high altitudes, so camping gear is an important part of the plan. Essential camping gear includes the following: Windproof and waterproof mountaineering tent: lightweight and resistant to harsh conditions Insulated sleeping pad: prevents the cold from the ground from reaching you Season-appropriate sleeping bag: suited to the ambient temperature Small stove and fuel: lightweight and fuel-efficient for use in the mountains Lightweight eating utensils: for easier carrying Camp lantern: provides light at night Dried, lightweight food: such as nuts and ready-made meals When camping, keeping your gear light and compact is very important. Common mistakes when choosing mountaineering gear Many problems in mountaineering come down to choosing the wrong equipment. The most common mistakes: Not carrying enough water Choosing unsuitable footwear Starting the route too late Not having a map or GPS Wearing non-layered clothing Ignoring the weather conditions Overloading the backpack Conclusion Having a complete mountaineering gear checklist is one of the simplest yet most important things you can do before any trip. Choosing the right equipment both improves your safety and makes your climb easier and more enjoyable. It doesn't matter whether your route is easy or advanced; what matters is that you carry the necessary gear for the conditions and avoid the common mistakes in choosing equipment. Ultimately, a successful trip begins before the climb itself, with proper preparation. Frequently asked questions 1. What is the most important item in mountaineering? Proper hiking boots are the most important item. 2. What do I need for beginner mountaineering? A lightweight backpack, water, suitable clothing and standard boots. 3. Can you go mountaineering without professional equipment? Yes, on easy routes it is possible. 4. What is the best season for mountaineering? Spring and summer. 5. How can we avoid getting lost? By using GPS, a map and moving as a group.

Climbing Damavand is more than just another mountaineering trip; it is a serious, challenging and unforgettable experience. At 5,610 meters, Damavand is not only the highest peak in Iran but also the highest volcano in Asia. However, without knowing the routes and weather conditions, and without proper physical fitness, this climb can be very dangerous. In this complete Damavand climbing guide, we cover everything from routes to costs and safety tips. Table of contents: Damavand climbing routes Best time to climb Cost of climbing Damavand Important safety tips Conclusion Frequently asked questions Damavand Climbing Routes (The Best Routes) Damavand has several main climbing routes, each with its own difficulty level and特 characteristics. Choosing the right route has a big impact on the quality and safety of your climb. South Route (The Most Suitable Route) This is the most popular and safest climbing route. Mountain huts such as Bargah-e Sevom (Camp 3) have led most climbers to choose this route. North Route This is a harder, less-traveled route that requires a high level of fitness and more experience. West Route This route is quieter and relatively more technical, and is usually better suited to semi-professional climbers. Northeast Route One of the longest and hardest routes, used mostly for professional climbs. Best Time to Climb Damavand The best time to climb Damavand is usually from late Khordad to early Shahrivar (mid-June to late August). During this period: The weather is more stable There is less snow and ice The chance of storms is lower In autumn and winter, climbing is recommended only for professional, well-equipped teams, because conditions are very harsh and risky. Cost of Climbing Damavand The cost of climbing Damavand varies depending on the type of trip and the level of equipment, but it usually includes the following: Transport to Polur or Reyneh Hut fees (Bargah-e Sevom) Guide (if needed) Equipment rental or purchase Food and nutrition Mountaineering insurance In total, for a typical trip you should budget around 10 to 25 million tomans. More professional trips, or those with a guide, will naturally cost more. Important Safety Tips for the Climb Damavand is not an easy peak, and following safety guidelines is absolutely essential: Take acclimatization seriously Carry enough water Do not leave the marked routes Check the weather forecast before the climb Pay attention to the symptoms of altitude sickness Avoid climbing alone Carry complete and suitable equipment Ignoring these points can lead to dangers such as severe altitude sickness or getting lost. Conclusion Climbing Damavand is a special and unforgettable experience, but it also requires preparation, planning and awareness. Choosing the right route, the right time, full equipment and following safety guidelines play a decisive role in the success of this climb. If you set out without sufficient preparation, you face a high level of risk. On the other hand, if you follow the basics, climbing Damavand can become one of the best mountaineering experiences of your life. Frequently Asked Questions 1. Is climbing Damavand suitable for beginners? No, Damavand is not suitable for beginners. It requires previous experience on easier mountains and good physical fitness. 2. What is the hardest route on Damavand? The north and northeast routes are the hardest because of their steep slopes and technical conditions. 3. How many days does it take to climb Damavand? It usually takes 2 to 3 days, including acclimatization and the final summit climb. 4. Can you climb Damavand without a guide? Yes, but this is recommended only for experienced climbers, and it carries a high risk for beginners. 5. What is the biggest danger on Damavand? Altitude sickness and rapid weather changes are the most important dangers on this peak.

If there is one piece of gear in mountaineering that directly affects your comfort, your energy and even your safety, it is without doubt your hiking backpack. The wrong pack can quickly lead to fatigue, shoulder and back pain, and even reduce your balance on difficult routes. A proper, well-designed pack, on the other hand, distributes the weight correctly and lets you cover the trail with more energy and control. Choosing a backpack is not just buying a piece of equipment; you are defining your style of moving in the mountains. Table of Contents: Types of hiking backpacks Why does choosing a backpack matter? Popular brands and models The right backpack capacity Key features of a good backpack Common mistakes when choosing a backpack Conclusion Frequently asked questions Types of hiking backpacks Hiking backpacks are divided into several main categories based on how they are used and how long your trip is. Choosing the right type of pack is the first step toward a comfortable experience in the mountains. 1. Small backpacks (Daypack) These models usually have a capacity of 10 to 30 liters and are suited to day trips or light outings. Their low weight and simple design make them a comfortable choice for short routes. 2. Medium backpacks Packs of 30 to 50 liters are used for trips of one to two days. These models have enough space for extra clothing, food and essential equipment.  3. Large backpacks (Backpacking) Packs of 50 liters and above are designed for multi-day or professional trips. These models have a more advanced carrying system and distribute the weight better across your body.  Why does choosing the right type of backpack matter? Choosing the wrong backpack means either your gear won't fit properly, or the pack will be too heavy and hard to control. Every trip has its own suitable pack, so before choosing, you need to define what kind of trip you are planning.  Popular hiking backpack brands and models Choosing a reputable brand is very important when buying a hiking backpack, because it directly affects comfort, durability and safety. Brands such as Osprey, Gregory and Deuter are among the most popular options. Backpacks for women Osprey Aura AG 50: One of the best choices for women, with an advanced Anti-Gravity suspension system that distributes weight well and reduces pressure on your lower back. Gregory Deva 60: A professional pack with a design shaped to fit the female body, offering good comfort on multi-day trips. Osprey Eja 58: A lighter model for those who want to reduce pack weight on long trips. REI Co-op Flash 55 (Women’s): A more economical option, lightweight with a simple but practical design, for medium and light trips. Backpacks for men Gregory Baltoro 65: One of the most famous models for carrying heavy loads on long, professional trips. Osprey Atmos AG 65: A very popular model with excellent ventilation and weight distribution for hard, long routes. Deuter Aircontact Lite 50+10: A sturdy pack suited to heavy trips, focused on durability and comfort when carrying a large load. Osprey Aether 65: A classic and powerful option for professional multi-day mountaineering. What is the right backpack capacity? Pack capacity should be chosen based on the length of your trip and the type of equipment: Trips of a few hours: 10 to 20 liters Day trips: 20 to 30 liters Light two-day trips: 30 to 45 liters Multi-day trips: 50 liters and above But capacity is not the only thing that matters; how you organize your gear also plays an important role. A small but well-organized pack can perform better than a large, disorganized one. Key Features of a Standard Backpack A good backpack isn't just for carrying gear; it should also support your body and distribute the load properly. The most important features: A back ventilation system to reduce sweating Adjustable shoulder and waist straps for weight distribution A hip belt to take pressure off the shoulders Practical pockets with quick access Water-resistant, abrasion-resistant material A suitable weight for the pack itself A good backpack should spread the weight across your shoulders, waist and hips, rather than putting all the pressure on your shoulders. Why Is the Load-Carrying System Important? If all the weight rests on your shoulders, you will tire quickly, and your balance on difficult trails may even suffer. A proper carrying system helps you conserve energy along the route and move more comfortably. Common Mistakes When Choosing a Backpack Many people, especially beginners, make mistakes when choosing a backpack that later cause problems on the trail. The most important mistakes: Choosing a backpack based only on looks Buying a large backpack without a real need Ignoring your body shape Overlooking the ventilation system Not trying the backpack on before buying Choosing a heavy backpack even before filling it Overfilling the backpack Is a High Price Always a Sign of Quality? Not necessarily. Some backpacks cost more simply because of the brand, yet they may not suit your needs. It's better to choose based on comfort and the type of trip, not just price. Conclusion In mountaineering, a backpack is not just a way to carry a load; it is one of your most important pieces of equipment and directly affects your comfort and performance. The right choice can give you a comfortable, safe experience, while the wrong one can affect your entire trip. By understanding the types of backpacks, paying attention to the right capacity, checking the standard features and avoiding common mistakes, you can make a precise, well-informed choice. Frequently Asked Questions 1. What capacity is suitable for a one-day hike? A 20 to 30 litre backpack is usually the best choice. 2. Is a lightweight backpack better? Yes, less weight reduces fatigue and strain on the trail. 3. How do I know if a backpack fits my body? The weight should rest on your waist and hips, and the straps should be adjustable. 4. Does a backpack need to be waterproof? Yes, it should either be waterproof or at least come with a rain cover. 5. What is the best brand of mountaineering backpack? Osprey, Gregory and Deuter are among the most reputable brands. 6. Are women's backpacks different? Yes, they are designed to fit the female body shape. 7. What kind of backpack is suitable for starting mountaineering? Lightweight models such as the Osprey Eja or REI Flash are good options.

If you've ever looked up at a mountain and thought, "I wish I could climb that," you should know that getting started in mountaineering isn't all that complicated, but it isn't easy without some planning either. Mountaineering combines physical fitness, an understanding of nature and the right choice of gear. In this beginner's guide, you'll learn step by step how to get into this exciting sport safely and the right way. Table of contents: What is mountaineering and why does it matter? First steps to get started in mountaineering The best season to start mountaineering Essential gear for beginners How much does it cost to start mountaineering? Common mistakes when starting out Conclusion Frequently asked questions What is mountaineering and why does it matter? Mountaineering isn't just about climbing to a high point; it's a combination of exercise, nature travel and a mental challenge. It builds physical endurance, improves heart health and reduces stress. More importantly, mountaineering teaches you how to make decisions in difficult conditions and how to work in harmony with nature. That's why it's more than a pastime: it can become a way of life. First steps to get started in mountaineering You shouldn't start mountaineering with hard routes. The right path always goes from easy to difficult. First steps: Choose short, easy routes (such as hills or low-altitude mountains) Go with experienced people or mountaineering groups Learn the basics of navigation and safety Build up your fitness gradually (walking and aerobic exercise) Check the weather conditions before every climb The key point is that rushing is one of the biggest mistakes beginners make in mountaineering. The best season to start mountaineering Choosing the right time to start is very important, especially for beginners. Spring and summer are usually the best seasons to begin, because the weather is more stable and the routes are safer and more predictable. In these seasons, you are less likely to face cold, snow and harsh conditions, so you can focus more on learning and gaining experience. Starting mountaineering in autumn and winter requires more gear and more experience, so at the beginning it's better to start with easier conditions. Essential gear for beginners You don't need professional, expensive equipment to start mountaineering, but a few basic items are essential: Suitable, comfortable hiking boots A lightweight backpack Enough water bottles Suitable clothing (layered and moisture-wicking) A headlamp or flashlight Light, energy-rich snacks A small first aid kit Having the right gear makes your first experience safer and more enjoyable. How much does it cost to start mountaineering? One common question for people starting out is whether this sport is expensive. The truth is that you don't need to buy costly equipment to begin. With a few basic items, such as good boots, a light backpack, comfortable clothing and a few essential tools, you can get started at a reasonable cost. If you want to continue at a more serious level, costs will naturally rise, but at the start you can get much of your gear affordably or even borrow some of it. What matters more than cost is choosing practical, suitable items, not how expensive they are. Common mistakes when starting out Most problems at the start of mountaineering come from simple but important mistakes: Choosing hard routes at the beginning Carrying too little water and food Ignoring the weather conditions Wearing unsuitable footwear Starting without physical preparation Going to the mountains alone in the early days Paying no attention to the turnaround time If you recognize these mistakes and avoid them, your mountaineering experience will be much safer. Conclusion Getting started in mountaineering doesn't have to be hard or complicated, but it does require awareness and a good start. If you choose easy routes, carry the basic gear and gain experience gradually, you can move into the more serious side of mountaineering very quickly. The most important thing is not to rush, and to let your body and mind adapt to mountain conditions over time. Frequently asked questions 1. Do I need to be very athletic to start mountaineering? No, you don't need to be a professional, but a moderate level of fitness, such as regular walking, helps a lot and makes the route easier and safer. 2. What is the best age to start mountaineering? You can start at almost any age, though teenagers and young adults have an easier time because of their better physical capacity. 3. Can I start mountaineering alone? It isn't recommended, because at the beginning you don't have enough experience to manage the risks, and it's better to go with a group or an experienced person. 4. How long does it take to become an expert? Depending on training and experience, it usually takes anywhere from a few months to a few years. 5. What is the most important tip for beginners? Start slowly, choose easy routes and increase the difficulty of your trips gradually.

If you have ever thought about joining a mountaineering tour but didn't know which option suited you best, you're not alone. Choosing the right mountaineering tour is one of the most important decisions you can make, and it can mean the difference between an enjoyable, safe experience and a difficult, risky trip. In this guide, you'll learn how to make the best choice by understanding the different types of tours, difficulty levels and the organizer's reputation, so you can head into the mountains with confidence. Table of contents: Types of mountaineering tours Beginner vs. professional mountaineering tours Gear you need for a mountaineering tour Key tips before booking a tour How much does a mountaineering tour cost? Checking the organizer's credibility Conclusion Frequently asked questions Types of mountaineering tours Mountaineering tours fall into several categories depending on difficulty, duration and type of activity: Day tours These suit easy routes and beginners. They are usually run without an overnight stay. Multi-day tours (camping) These include staying in a tent or a mountain shelter and require more equipment. Summit climbing tours The main goal of these tours is to reach the summit, and they usually require a higher level of physical fitness. Mountain nature tours These tours are lighter than professional mountaineering and are mostly organized for the purpose of enjoying nature. Beginner vs. professional mountaineering tours It is very important to understand the difference between these two types of tours, because a wrong choice can be dangerous. Beginner tour: Short, gently sloping routes Slower pace Simple equipment Suitable for people with no experience Professional tour: Long and challenging routes High level of physical fitness required Specialized equipment Includes technical climbs If you are new to this, it's best to start with easier tours and gradually raise your level over time. Gear you need for a mountaineering tour Having the right gear is very important when joining a mountaineering tour. Even if the tour is run as a group, much of the equipment you need is your own responsibility. Choosing it well helps you move more comfortably and avoid problems along the way. Essential gear for a mountaineering tour: Comfortable, suitable hiking boots A light, good-quality backpack Enough water and energy-boosting snacks Suitable clothing (layering system) Trekking poles (if needed) Headlamp or flashlight Sunscreen and sunglasses Before the tour begins, it's best to get the list of required equipment from the organizer so you don't forget anything. Key tips before booking a tour Before signing up for any tour, it's best to check the following: The difficulty level of the route and how well it matches your physical ability The detailed tour schedule (departure time, route and stops) Required equipment Weather conditions at the time of travel Group size The presence of a professional guide (leader) These points help you make a more informed choice and avoid possible problems. How much does a mountaineering tour cost? The cost of a mountaineering tour varies depending on different conditions, and no single fixed price can be given. Tour prices are usually determined by several main factors. The most important factors affecting the cost: Route and destination (easy or technical) Tour duration (one day or several days) Type of accommodation (none, tent or mountain shelter) Transport (public or private vehicle) Services provided (guide, insurance, meals, etc.) In general, the higher the level of services and the more demanding the program, the higher the cost of the tour. When choosing, don't look only at the price; put the quality of services and safety first. How do you check the organizer's credibility? One of the most important parts of choosing a tour is checking the organizer's credibility. Things to check: Having an official operating license A track record of successful tours Reviews from previous participants The presence of a trained guide Insurance for participants Never look only at a low price; a cheap but unprofessional tour can be very risky. Conclusion Choosing the right mountaineering tour is not just about finding a cheap or nearby program; you also need to consider your ability level, the type of route, the quality of services and the organizer's credibility. If you take some time to check the details before booking, you'll have a safer experience and be far more likely to enjoy the trip. Frequently asked questions 1. Are mountaineering tours suitable for beginners? Yes, as long as you choose a tour that matches a beginner's level. 2. How do I know if a tour is right for me? Check the difficulty level of the route and compare it with your own physical ability. 3. Is joining a tour safer than climbing solo? Yes, especially for beginners, a tour is usually the safer option. 4. How much does a mountaineering tour cost? It varies depending on the type of tour, the route and the services provided. 5. Is equipment provided on the tour? Some tours provide equipment, but personal gear is usually the participant's responsibility.

If there is one piece of gear that is truly vital in mountaineering, it is without doubt your hiking boots. A wrong choice can very quickly lead to blisters, severe fatigue or even injury. A good pair of boots, on the other hand, can make a climb easier, safer and more enjoyable. In this hiking boot buying guide, you will learn exactly which boots suit you and what to look out for when buying. Table of contents: Types of hiking boots Features of a good hiking boot How to choose the right hiking boot size Common mistakes when buying hiking boots The best hiking boot brands What is the difference between men's and women's hiking boots? Quick checklist for buying hiking boots Conclusion Frequently asked questions Types of hiking boots Hiking boots are divided into several categories based on the type of route and its difficulty: Light boots (Hiking) These are suited to short, easy routes. They are comfortable and lightweight, but not a good choice for difficult routes. Trekking boots (Trekking) Designed for long and moderately demanding routes, they strike a good balance between comfort and durability. Heavy boots (Mountaineering) These are made for professional, snow and ice climbs. These models are very durable, heavy and highly specialised. Features of a good hiking boot To choose a good pair of boots, pay attention to several important features: A durable, non-slip sole (such as Vibram) to help you keep your balance Waterproofing to keep moisture out Good ventilation to reduce foot sweat A high shaft to protect the ankle The right size (with a little free space for the toes) Balanced weight (neither too heavy nor too light) A good boot should be comfortable and also protect your feet in harsh conditions. How to choose the right hiking boot size Choosing the right size in hiking boots is far more important than you might think. The wrong size can cause blisters, pain or even damage to your toenails. To choose the right size, keep these points in mind: Measuring your foot: It is best to measure the length of your foot accurately and choose based on the brand's size chart. Try boots on in the evening: Your feet swell slightly over the course of the day, so trying boots on in the evening helps you choose more accurately. Space in front of the toes: There should be a little free space in front of your toes so that your foot does not push forward on steep routes. Finally, the boot should neither be loose on your foot nor too tight; fit is the most important criterion. Common mistakes when buying hiking boots Many people make mistakes when buying hiking boots that later cause problems on the trail: Choosing boots based on looks alone Buying a size that is too tight or too loose Not considering the type of route Not trying the boots on before buying Not wearing suitable socks Buying cheap, low-quality boots These mistakes can completely ruin your hiking experience. The best hiking boot brands There are many different brands on the market, but some stand out for their quality and popularity: Salomon – lightweight, comfortable and well suited to trekking trails La Sportiva – professional-grade and suited to difficult climbs Scarpa – durable and high quality The North Face – a blend of design and performance Columbia – affordable and suitable for beginners The brand matters, but what matters even more is that the boot fits your foot perfectly. What is the difference between men's and women's hiking boots? Women's and men's hiking boots don't differ only in appearance; they are designed around different foot shapes. Women's boots are usually narrower, have a different arch, and are shaped to better match the female foot. Men's models, by contrast, are usually wider and larger. Choosing a model that matches your foot shape means more comfort and less fatigue or risk of injury on the trail. Quick checklist for buying hiking boots Before buying a pair of boots, run through these points quickly to make a more confident choice: Are the boots completely comfortable? Is the size right, without pressing on your foot? Is there enough room in front of your toes? Is the sole suitable for the intended route? Do the boots stay firmly in place without feeling loose? Is the weight well balanced? If the answer to most of these questions is “yes,” you have probably made the right choice. Conclusion Choosing the right hiking boots is one of the most important decisions, directly affecting your comfort, safety and the quality of your experience in the mountains. If you understand the type of trail, the features of the boots and the common mistakes, you can make a more precise choice. Always remember that comfort and fit matter more than the brand or the price. Frequently asked questions 1. What is the most important feature of a hiking boot? Comfort and fit are the most important factors. 2. Are expensive boots always better? No. What matters is that the boots suit your needs. 3. What boots are suitable for starting out? Trekking shoes are the best option for beginners. 4. Should hiking boots be high-cut? For mountain trails, high-cut boots are better because they protect your ankles. 5. When should we replace our hiking boots? When the soles are worn down or the boots have lost their comfort.

Mountaineering is one of the most rewarding nature activities, but if you don't take its risks seriously, it can quickly become a tough and even dangerous experience. The truth is that many mountain accidents happen because of a lack of awareness or because people overlook simple precautions. If you want to climb with greater peace of mind, you need to know the main mountaineering hazards and how to react in each situation. Table of contents: Natural hazards in mountaineering Warning signs in the mountains Human errors in the mountains Essential safety tips Safety equipment for mountaineering Emergency actions in the mountains Safety checklist before a climb Conclusion Frequently asked questions Natural hazards in mountaineering The mountains are a beautiful but unpredictable environment. Natural conditions can change very quickly, and if you are not prepared, they can put you in a dangerous situation. Sudden weather changes In the mountains, the weather can change within minutes, from sunshine to fog, rain or even snow. If you don't take this seriously, you may be caught off guard on the trail and lose visibility. Cold and hypothermia Hypothermia means a severe drop in body temperature. It happens when the body loses heat faster than it can produce it. Symptoms such as shivering, confusion and difficulty concentrating can be signs that it is starting.How to prevent it: Wear layered clothing, keep your body dry and carry extra warm clothes. Falls and slips Rocky, steep or icy routes can be very slippery. A single moment of carelessness can cause a fall.How to prevent it: Wear suitable footwear, move carefully and keep your balance. Rockfall and avalanches On some routes, especially at high altitude or on steep slopes, there is a risk of rockfall or avalanches.How to prevent it: Choose a safe route, check the conditions in the area and avoid crossing high-risk zones. Lack of oxygen at altitude The higher you go, the less oxygen there is, and you may suffer from headache, dizziness or weakness.How to prevent it: Ascend gradually and get enough rest. Warning signs in the mountains In the mountains, your body warns you before serious danger arises. Recognizing these signs helps you make timely decisions and prevent an accident. The most important warning signs: Severe dizziness Loss of balance Severe shivering Shortness of breath Severe headache (especially at altitude) Nausea or extreme weakness If you experience any of these signs, it is best to stop, rest and, if necessary, descend to a lower altitude. Human errors in the mountains A large share of mountaineering accidents are caused by poor decisions, not just by natural conditions. Lack of planning: Setting out without checking the route, timing and weather conditions Underestimating the route: Assuming the route is easy and ignoring its difficulty Ignoring fatigue: Disregarding your body's warnings Continuing in dangerous conditions: Insisting on climbing when conditions are unsuitable Inexperienced solo climbing: Going alone without enough preparation These simple mistakes can easily turn into dangerous situations. Essential safety tips for mountaineering To reduce the risks, following a few simple but important tips can make a big difference: Check the route and weather conditions before setting out Set a specific turnaround time Tell a reliable person about your plan Move at a pace that suits your ability Turn back in time if conditions get worse Pay attention to your body's signals These steps help you stay more in control of the situation. Safety equipment for mountaineering Having the right equipment is one of the most important factors in mountaineering safety. The right gear can prevent accidents in difficult conditions. The most important safety equipment: Proper mountaineering footwear (to prevent slips and injuries) Layered clothing (to regulate body temperature) Headlamp (for emergencies) Map or GPS (to avoid getting lost) Enough water and food (to keep up your energy) First aid kit (to deal with possible injuries) Carrying this equipment means you are prepared for different situations and can make better decisions. Emergency actions in the mountains Even if you follow all the safety tips, you may find yourself in a situation that requires quick decisions. Knowing a few simple actions can be very helpful at such times. In an emergency: Stay calm and avoid rash decisions If possible, contact the rescue services Stay on marked routes and do not leave the trail If you are injured, limit your movement and stabilize your condition If the weather turns bad, find a safe place to stop These simple actions can keep the situation from getting worse and increase the chances of getting help. Safety checklist before a climb Before starting any mountaineering trip, run through these items quickly so you can set out better prepared: Have I checked the weather? Are the route and schedule clear? Do I have the essential equipment with me? Have I packed enough water and food? Have I told a reliable person about the plan? Have I set a specific turnaround time? If your answer to these questions is "yes", you are probably ready for a safe climb. Conclusion For all its beauty and appeal, mountaineering can also involve serious risks. Understanding these dangers and following safety guidelines is the most important step toward a safe climb. If you take natural conditions seriously, avoid common mistakes and carry the right equipment, you can enjoy the experience with greater peace of mind. Above all, the most important rule in mountaineering is this: safety always matters more than reaching the summit. Frequently Asked Questions 1. What is the biggest danger in mountaineering? It is a combination of natural conditions and human error, but lack of preparation is the biggest risk factor. 2. What exactly is hypothermia? It is a severe drop in body temperature caused by cold and getting wet, and it can be extremely dangerous. 3. Is mountaineering without proper equipment dangerous? Yes. Even on easy routes, conditions can change and catch you by surprise. 4. When should we turn back? When the weather turns bad, your body is exhausted, or the situation gets out of control.