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Rock Climbing
Knot-Tying Techniques and Their Uses in Rock Climbing

Knot-Tying Techniques and Their Uses in Rock Climbing

Climbers use a variety of knots depending on the location, the area they are climbing in and the purpose of the knot. Sport climbers tend to use fewer knots, and a more distinct set of them, than other climbers. In wall climbing, it is essential to be able to tie every knot quickly and safely so that the team can work properly. You should become skilled enough to tie a knot even with your eyes closed, in an emergency, in the dark, or when you are tired or short of time. Uncertainty or carelessness can lead to fatal mistakes. There are three types of knots: rope-climbing knots, connecting knots, and knots that create friction and security. Note: Any knot can create a tear or a weak point in the chain of connection, so you must tie your knots very carefully and neatly! Munter hitch The Munter hitch is a protective knot. Strictly speaking it is not one of the main knots, but a loop used to make a connection. It is used to belay the lead climber and the second, and also to lower a partner on the rope. It works best with a pear-shaped HMS carabiner. Clove hitch The clove hitch is a safe knot, well suited to the anchor. It is attached to the central point of the anchor with a locking carabiner. You can adjust the length of the clove hitch quickly and precisely: hold the middle edge of the knot and push the rope in the direction you want. There is also no need to make an awkward connection to the anchor or to remove it. Figure eight knot The figure eight is a standard knot used for climbing with a rope. It is also used in sport climbing and technical mountaineering. Note: After tying the knot, tighten it well and check all of its strands again before you start. Overhand knot The overhand knot is used as a connecting knot, that is, to join the two ends of a rope. It is also very common where the load is light, such as when rappelling, or for knots that have to be set in the climbing site (a tunnel or a loop knot). Although the overall security of this knot is not high and it leaves two long tails, it is perfectly adequate for withstanding this low level of load. Girth hitch On the one hand, this knot is a quick and easy way to connect carabiners to each other. On the other hand, it can be used to tie a carabiner to a tree or to connect an anchor carabiner to a sling or another carabiner. Warning: Connecting knots such as the girth hitch can be very vulnerable when they are under heavy load and get scraped against the rock wall, for example when you set up a hauling rope over the edge of a rock. In general, chain-like equipment is highly vulnerable and is easily damaged. Prusik knot The Prusik knot is a friction knot that can help you when climbing. It can be moved when it is not under load, but it stays fixed if load is applied to it. The Prusik is most often used to increase safety when rappelling down rock walls. In this knot, a rope is wrapped two or three times, depending on its thickness, around the two strands of another rope. The person rappelling moves the knot along with their hand as they descend, so the Prusik protects them. The rope used for this knot is usually 5-6 mm thick. Klemheist knot This knot can be an alternative to the Prusik, but if it is pulled in different directions, it only works effectively in one direction. The Klemheist is very effective with a sling, because even the thinnest slings work well with this knot. Bowline on a bight A climber needs a central point on the anchor to which they can attach the anchor carabiners and their partner's belay device. This knot acts as that central point and, using two loops, puts little stress on the slings. The bowline is also very strong and does not tighten up when put under heavy load. Climbers usually prepare this knot with a 120 cm sling before setting off. Then, while climbing, they have two screw-gate carabiners ready with them. Rock climbing requires learning a variety of knots. A climber must know exactly when and where to use each knot in order to enjoy a safe climb and a safe overall outing.
Essential Gear Every Rock Climber Needs

Essential Gear Every Rock Climber Needs

It is a fact that you cannot go rock climbing without equipment. If you are heading out on technical mountaineering routes, you will need even more gear. Alongside your personal fitness and ability, having suitable, high-quality equipment is essential in climbing, so there are various standards that mountaineering equipment must meet. In addition to the European standard (EN), you should also pay attention to the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) standard, which has become a global benchmark. From helmets to climbing and mountaineering shoes: the essential equipment for high-altitude climbing is more extensive than what is needed for sport climbing or indoor climbing. Depending on your rock climbing or technical mountaineering plans, the required equipment may differ, but the basic gear is the same for all teams. Harness Whether for sport climbing, ice climbing, technical mountaineering or trips that ascend to high altitudes, the harness (a piece of climbing and mountaineering equipment that protects the climber during the ascent) is one of the main items of required gear. There are many types of harnesses on the market, each with different features depending on its use. Waist belt: Climbing with a waist belt is one of the methods we recommend; however, there are differences between the harnesses used in sport climbing, high-altitude tours and mountaineering. While sport climbing harnesses have fewer gear loops, these loops are very important in mountaineering; for example, there must be enough loops for quickdraws, for carrying various types of protection, for the tools needed to build a belay station, and for other uses. The soft, thick padding of the waist belt is less valuable in mountaineering than in sport climbing, because in mountaineering people usually avoid rappelling. That said, a harness must fit the body perfectly, and the straps behind the leg loops and the waist must be wide enough. Otherwise, the harness will be uncomfortable and painful when hanging or on long climbs. Harnesses designed for high-altitude climbs do not have wide straps or stiff padding, because, unlike mountaineering harnesses, they are not designed for long periods of use. Instead, they are smaller and much lighter. Chest harness: A chest harness is a complement to the waist belt and in most cases is used only together with it. Although it happens very rarely, this piece should prevent the climber from flipping upside down in a fall. Full body harness (full body): In the past, full body harnesses were used in mountaineering and high-altitude tours; today, however, this type of harness is used in industrial climbing or for children who do not yet have fully developed muscle mass. Full body harnesses are not used in mountaineering and sport climbing, because their hanging position makes rappelling difficult. View and buy all kinds of harnesses at the Dobisell online store Helmet A helmet in mountaineering and rock climbing has two purposes: to protect the climber from falling rocks and from impact. Older climbing helmets had a plastic shell and were strong against impact from above, but they could not protect as well against blows to the side of the helmet. Modern helmets are relatively light because they are made with a polystyrene core and a relatively soft outer shell. These helmets protect you well against impacts but, because of their construction, are more fragile. The hybrid helmet tries to strike a balance between the advantages and disadvantages of plastic and molded helmets: foam covered with a plastic layer. Despite their light weight, hybrid helmets protect the wearer well against impacts. View and buy all kinds of helmets at the Dobisell online store Climbing shoes The soles of all climbing shoes use very little stitching, in order to create friction on the rock and ensure firm footing. Different shoe models vary in the amount of tension, the sole and the shape. Climbing shoes should be chosen according to their intended use. No shoe is so perfect that it can be used for everything, from rough routes to high-altitude tours. For example, on mountaineering routes where people cannot take their shoes off after every pitch, comfort matters far more than in sport climbing. For this reason, the climbing shoes used for these trips are more comfortable than sport climbing shoes and are less stiff and tight. Even so, these shoes must also grip the rock or cliff face well enough for the climber to place their feet more precisely. Read more about how to choose and buy the right climbing shoes Browse and buy a range of climbing shoes at the Dobisell online store Belay and Descent Equipment HMS carabiner (pear-shaped): one of the most essential pieces of equipment you will need! There are basically two types of HMS carabiner: those with a safe locking system (SafeLock) and those with a non-secure locking system (hook-shaped, or snap-gate). The first type is mainly used for glacier climbing or rope climbing, because it prevents the carabiner from opening accidentally due to rope friction. Non-locking carabiners are also used on mountaineering tours; they have a large opening, which makes them ideal for protection, belaying or descending. Browse and buy a range of carabiners at the Dobisell online store ATC: a device with dynamic braking, used in technical climbs for protection, belaying or descending. These devices generate braking force through the manual force applied to the rope. Semi-automatic belay devices such as the Grigri and Smart work differently. With these devices, if there is a sudden fall, the rope stops moving automatically. Read more about the Petzl Reverso belay and descent device Browse and buy a range of belay and descent devices at the Dobisell online store Chalk and Chalk Bag Chalk consists mainly of liquid or powdered magnesium, which dries out the hands. It absorbs sweat moisture and helps climbers grip the rock more easily. Browse and buy a range of climbing chalk and chalk bags at the Dobisell online store Slings and Quickdraws In mountaineering, slings are used at the midpoint of the harness or to connect fixed points. Slings, which are usually made of polyamide (nylon), must be tied off separately with a knot or be sewn. Slings are also used in the quickdraws for technical climbs. The advantage of this type of quickdraw is that its length can be changed quickly, and extending it at certain points along the route reduces rope drag and friction. Quickdraws are also used to attach the rope along a pitch. They are made with two types of webbing, rigid and dynamic (Dyneema). They also come in different lengths, and depending on the type of climb, short and long quickdraws are used along the route. Browse and buy a range of slings and quickdraws at the Dobisell online store HMS Carabiners and Screw-gate Carabiners The HMS carabiner has a large opening, and its name comes from the German word “Halbmastwurfsicherung”. Together with the Munter hitch, it can belay both the lead climber and the second. Combined with a self-belay knot, it can also be used to protect yourself and climb up a rock face. By contrast, screw-gate carabiners have a smaller opening and are less often used for (self-)belaying. Plain Carabiners and Screw-gate Carabiners Plain carabiners are considered the basic connectors in rock climbing. They attach the rope to a bolt or to old climbing gear on the rock face. Climbing carabiners are made of aluminium alloys and come in two types: straight-gate and bent-gate. Like HMS and screw-gate carabiners, plain carabiners must also meet a specific standard for the minimum force they can hold. Kevlar or Dyneema Cord (single cord) Cords are made either of polyethylene (Dyneema) or of aramid (Kevlar). Although polyamide cord is very resistant to tearing, it is still thinner than Kevlar and Dyneema, so it must be thicker and heavier to meet the standards. Dyneema cord is very light and highly resistant to tearing. It is also very resistant to cutting, but it is not very elastic. Kevlar cord has properties quite similar to Dyneema, but it is slightly heavier by comparison. Keep in mind that tying a knot in a rope reduces its strength. Depending on the knot, the rope's strength can drop by 25 to 50 percent. Hanging from a carabiner can also reduce a rope's strength. Read more about knot-tying techniques and their uses in rock climbing Browse and buy a range of ropes at the Dobisell online store Mobile phone A mobile phone is a vital part of your gear, so that you can call for help or make emergency calls. Note that all equipment made of plastic has a maximum lifespan of 10 years. Harnesses, helmets, ropes and other gear must be replaced after 10 years (even if you have not used them). Also, if your equipment has borne a very heavy load, in severe cases (for example, after a serious fall) you should replace it after a single use.